Salem Ferry the Bowditch

As a person who has to travel to Boston more often come June 1st, I’ve been looking at taking the Salem Ferry once in a while.  The Salem Ferry is a 92-foot high-speed catamaran with a capacity of 149 passengers. It makes the trip between Salem and Boston in 45 minutes that’s about 10 minutes longer than the commuter rail but if you are going to the financial district your overall trip may be shorter.

As with any method of transportation the Salem Ferry has it’s pros and cons. Aside from a season opening fire a few years back, some of the obvious cons are price, weather and schedule.

The price of a round trip ferry ride is $24 ($20 off season) commuters can get a 10 ride pass (one week) for $54.  Compared to the commuter rail which is $163 a month the ferry costs $53 dollars MORE!

If you are a 9 to 5 worker you would have to take the boat at 7am getting you to Long Wharf at 7:55 (that’s 10 minutes longer than they claim it takes, maybe it’s the “new math”).  Then heading out of Boston there is a 5:10 or 7:10.  It’s like they missed the obvious departure times.  For this to be worthwhile to the commuter it should depart Salem around 8am and arrive in Boston around 8:45 then for the evening commute depart around 6 and arrive in Salem around 6:45.

Is the Salem Ferry only for tourists?

It looks like the schedule and time isn’t very conducive for the daily Salem to Boston commuter but what about tourists?

The Boston dock for the Salem ferry is centrally located at Long Wharf, right near the Aquarium, Faneuil Hall, the North End and plenty of other tourist locations, hotels and restaurants.  If you are a tourist going to Boston you will no-doubt find yourself near they ferry so it’s quite convenient.  Let’s face it, taking a boat through the harbor islands and up along the coast is much more fun than the MBTA’s Orange line to North Station then a commuter train through Everett, Chelsea and Lynn on your way to Salem.  Sure it costs a few bucks more but when you get off the boat in Salem you are right by the House of Seven Gables, a big attraction for Salem tourists.

Splitting the difference

If you are someone who prefers a more enjoyable commute but can’t fathom a 7am departure, maybe splitting the difference is the way to go.  Why not take the train in to Boston in the morning and then decompress with a leisurely cruise home?  We forgot to mention one of the Salem Ferry’s strong points – their on board bar.  What would be better than soaking up the late afternoon rays, enjoying the ocean scenery as you zip away from Boston sipping on an adult beverage?  Looks like for us Salemites taking the ferry once in a while could be the best of both worlds.

The Salem Ferry opens for service on May 22 with its summer schedule going into effect on June 20.  Tickets can be purchased at the ferry or online.  Visit salemferry.com for schedule and other info.

People visit Salem year round. Obviously October is the busiest month of the year but tourists flock to this historic city from April till November, giving the residents a brief respite during the winter.

If you are thinking of coming to Salem there are a few options on how to get here. You can take the MBTA Commuter Rail and get off at the Salem Depot which is a 3 minute walk to down town. From May to November you can take the Salem Ferry which goes from Central Wharf (New England Aquarium) in Boston to the Blaney Street Dock in Salem. But for most people driving is the way to get here.

Now that it is April 1 (no joke) street cleaning is in effect and parking enforcement is stronger. Last year Salem brought in $1.7 Million in parking fees. This post is your guide to the dos and don’t of parking in the Witch City.

Where can I park in Salem?

Parking lots and garages are you best bet if you are unfamiliar with the area.

• Museum Place Mall garage
• South Harbor garage ( on Derby Street)
• MBTA Commuter Rail parking lot
• Blaney Street lot
• Church Street lot
• Crombie Street lot
• Sewell Street lot by the YMCA
• Front Streetl lot behind the Fire Station
• Riley Plaza lot in front of the Post Office

What about resident parking?

Like other cities Salem has plenty of streets in its historic neighborhoods that offer resident parking. All residents who live in an area that offers resident only parking can go to the Parking Office at 1 New Liberty Street across from the Visitor Center and get a resident parking sticker.

In October, any resident can get a month long resident pass allowing them to park on streets that have temporary resident only parking due to the Halloween season.

Tell me about “on street” parking

If you are coming up for the day or perhaps a short stay at one of our B&B’s you might be interested in on-street parking. In the down town and surrounding areas many streets have metered spots. Parking meters run from 8am to 5 or 6pm after that you can park in the spot for free. Unlike the exorbitantly prices you would pay in Boston (5 minutes per quarter) one quarter will buy you an hour in Salem with most meters having a max time of two hours. Meters take nickels, dimes and quarters so remember to bring change.

Parking Enforcement

Salem meter maids hit the pavement with a vengeance every morning. Don’t expect to be given any slack… ever. Do yourself a favor and remember where and when you parked so you can avoid these Salem witches.

If you do find yourself with an orange greeting card on your windshield you can take care of it any time of day or night. Simple meter expired parking violations only cost $10 which is less than parking a full day in the garages during Halloween season. For your convenience there is a 24 hour drop box in front of City hall where you can pay your ticket.

See Salem from a Trolley Tour

There are two tour company’s that operate in Salem, City View Trolley Tours and Salem Trolley. I noticed both companies were out this past weekend. City View has taken up residence in an empty retail space on Essex Street and is looking for employees if you need a cool April through October job. Both Companies start their regular schedule next week, in the beginning of April.

(c) jdong

Salem Trolley
8 Central St.
978.744.5469

Salem’s original narrated Trolley Tour, the red Salem trolleys that you see around town have been here since 1982. For a flat fee you can board this trolley and take a one hour 8 mile ride around town. One reason tourists love the trolley is because with your ticket you can get on and off the trolley all day long. It is so convenient for someone who isn’t familiar with all the side streets of Salem and still wants to maximize their sight seeing time.

Salem Trolley’s fleet consists of two handicapped accessible trolleys and two traditional ones. Their service runs from 10am to 5pm and a map of stops and times is available here on their website. You can also charter a trolley if you are having an event in Salem.

Ticket prices (available at select locations in town)
Adults $12
Seniors $10
Kids $3
Toddlers free when accompanied by an adult so don’t let your 1 year old ride the trolley by himself.
They also have a variety of combo packages.

(c) City View Trolley Tours

City View Trolley Tours
PO Box 729
Salem MA 01970
978.594.0969

City View is the new kid in town and is easily recognized by their silver trolleys. Their business has been running in Boston for over 25 years, but they just came to Salem a few seasons ago. With nine stops, including one at the Salem Ferry, the City View tour is a one hour narrated historical ride. Like it’s competition, you can get on and off all day at whichever stop you wish. Unlike it’s competition, City View offers service to the ferry and MBTA Commuter Rail station. A full map of stops is available here on their website.

Ticket prices (available onboard or online)
Adults $12
Students & Seniors $10
Kids $5

Seeing Salem MA from a different perspective

Regardless of which Trolley company you decide to try, they are an excellent way to learn more about Salem. I always suggest to new visitors and locals alike to give it a ride at least once a year. Each driver has a different perspective and is knowledgeable about different aspects of Salem’s history. One driver might know more about the maritime history where another might have a better understanding about the early settlers and witch-related items. Either way you slice it, seeing things from a new angle is always a treat.

I enjoy the bunghole for something fun and different once in a while. It’s also fun to share a friends first bunghole experience with them, I love to see the look on their face. The bunghole never fails to get a smile. I love Bunghole Liquors.

With the recent holidays, I hosted a few out of town guests who were excited to go to the bunghole of all places. This modest package store (packie and package store are Massachusetts slang for liquor store) probably sells more T-shirts than cases of beer. They have parlayed their unique name into an online brand and sell swag near and far.

Salem’s Bunghole has a storied past with the building being used as a funeral palour during the time of prohibition (19th century prohibition not Salem’s first prohibition in 1657). Downstairs in a room perhaps used for embalming, the funeral director and his cohorts would meet to put back a few cocktails (he put the “fun” back in funeral). For whatever reason, the group refered to this private drinking spot as “the bunghole.” A bunghole is actually a hole bored into liquor casks (think scotch, wine or rum) which is plugged by a large cork known as a bung. One of the owners drinking buddies suggested that if prohibition was ever lifted he should turn the place into a liquor store. On December 5th, 1933 when the Twenty First Amendment was ratified Bunghole Liquors applied for and was granted the second liquor license that Salem issued.

There are plenty of better package stores in town but the Bunghole is fine for a neighborhood packie. And if you are like many tourists you’ll want to swing by for a photo and perhaps a coosy, church key or t-shirt. Just don’t forget, they sell alcohol in there too.

Salem has a host of breakfast nooks today we revisited Fountain Place, diagonally across from the Samantha statue on the corner of Essex and Washington.

It had been over a year since we last reviewed Fountain Place and with that information long gone the time had come again to try it out. Nothing much had changed. They still have a stellar location on the corner of the block with big windows so patrons can look out on the morning hustle and bustle. The interior is bland and could use a makeover, its not bad just somewhat worn. The waitress was very friendly and had a surly diner waitress air about her.

We ordered the eggs Benedict (with home fries), eggs Florentine, and French toast. Coffee, OJ and chocolate milk rounded out our order. Service was quick with the food being served up nice and hot. Everything was good but none of it was inspired. The hollandaise was fine but unremarkable, Florentine also was satisfactory but nothing to write home about.

Unlike other breakfast joints in town there is nothing bad about this place, on the other hand nothing stands out either. Bland.

Atmosphere: C
Food: C
Service: B+
Price: B+
Overall: C

Prior to our New Years Eve bash, some of our contributors were making the rounds and met up with a couple from New York City who were looking for a taste of something different. What they found is sure to spice up your new year.

Rockafellas “helltini” will make fire shoot out your ears, it’s so spicy you have to sign a waiver before you will be served. I had only a few drops and while tasty my tongue and lips were dancing a Cajun two step for the next 10 minutes. Made with vodka, cinnamon, jagermeister and an evil looking spice concoction this martini doesn’t come cheap. But if you are man (or woman) enough to finish this $20 drink you are rewarded not only with a warm glow but you choice of souvenir t-shirt.

A warning from our new tourist friends – “do not take part in any sort of amorous activities directly following consuming this beverage or you run the risk of incinerating your partner’.

For the past 28 years, Historic Salem Inc. (the people responsible for those cool plaques on our homes) has been organizing a walking tour of historic homes to help raise money for their organization. Let me say right up front that I am a member, choosing to join after attending a series of walking tours this summer. I felt it was $40 ( for a household membership) well spent. They do a great job for the community so please don’t be put off by their website www.historicsalem.org.

Two years ago I went on the house tour and walked through 15 homes (only 14 were on the tour but someone left a door open and next thing you know 50 people walked through their house). Most were private residences but some were public and/or notable, like the House of Seven Gables and the Home for Aged Women (a McIntire home). It is a true pleasure to see how some of the historical homes you walk by every day look inside. I often get inspired by how some people have kept up or restored their homes. I also am bewildered by some of the other things that people do to their houses. Either way its a win win for me and Historic Salem.

This years tour keeps the summer walking lecture series alive by focusing on Samuel McIntire.

McIntire: Mansions and More will be the theme of the 28th annual Christmas in Salem house tour sponsored by Historic Salem Inc. This year’s event will showcase the work of Samuel McIntire, Salem’s renowned Federal period architect and carver, in the 250th anniversary year of his birth. Fifteen of Salem’s finest properties, designed or inspired by McIntire, will be featured on this tour, which will be located in the Washington Square/Salem Common area as well as in the Federal and Chestnut Street neighborhoods which make up the aptly named McIntire District.
- Historic Salem Inc.

I know that Salem is a walking city and this walking tour is a prime example of a great way to spend a weekend day here in town. The tour runs from 10 am to 4 pm on Saturday December 1, 2007 and 11:30 am to 4:30 pm on Sunday, advanced ticket holders get a Friday night bonus of five homes open just to them from 5 pm to 8 pm.

Advance tickets can be purchased at the following retailers before Thursday Nov. 29th at 5:00pm. Ticket prices are $20 in advance, $18 for HSI members and seniors.

• A Touch of the Past, 83 Washington Street, Salem
• Borders Books & Music, 151 Andover Street, Peabody
• Peter D. Barter Gift Shop, 201 Derby Street, Salem
• Waters & Brown, 281 Derby Street, Salem
• Waters & Brown, 14 Elliott Street, Beverly
• The Trolley Depot, 191 Essex Street, Salem

Tickets may be purchased the day of the tour (Saturday & Sunday) for $25 at:

• Hamilton Hall – 9 Chestnut St,
• Treasures Over Time – 131 Essex Street #4

Note:
Usually when I contribute to this site I stock the post with photos, unfortunately I am on the road now and don’t have access to last years images. I will do a follow up to this post with a selection of pictures from this years tour so stay tuned!

Sometimes you just want a slice or two because a whole pie is too much. For my money, Engine House pizza is your best bet.

Don’t get me wrong, Engine House serves up more than just pie, they also have subs, salads, sides and wraps. It’s just that their slice of pizza is the best in town.

As a pizza expert (worked in pizza restaurants for almost10 years as a teenager/young adult) I know a thing or two about good pizza. Engine House always has fresh slices in their rack. Their slice pies (industry term for a pizza that you serve slices from – this is different from a normal pie you serve as one unit) are made with a bit more cheese than a normal pie so that each slice has a good amount of cheese on it. Also, they take the slice pie out of the oven on the light side so that when you order a slice and have it heated up it does not burn.

Their crusts seem to be tossed with 100% flower and no semolina, which gives it a smooth crunchy texture and an even crust with no burnt gritty dust on the bottom.

Engine house is a true pizzeria (with an antique firefighter motif) , serving beer and wine with traditional Italian style pizza tossed by hand. If your appetite demands more than just a slice or two, Salem insiders know that for every 10 pies you take out or have delivered you get one FREE!

Atmosphere: B
Service: B-
Food (slice): A
Overall: B

Nestled on the edge of down town Salem sits what I can only describe as an adult contemporary dining experience.

Stregas exterior does nothing to inform you as to what lies beyond its doors. Once inside you enjoy a beautiful wood bar with impressive columns, warm walls with geometric patterns, and fun retro-style lighting. Three plasma screens at the bar were tuned into the sporting game du jour (Patriots Sunday night game) while the room was filled with the sounds of latin hip-hop and later ambient chill out lounge.

We were promptly seated and a waitress took our drink order. I was disappointed to find out they did not have Bombay Sapphire, a staple at any respectable restaurant. I opted for a Hendrix martini while my dining companion ordered a cosmo. The menu was robust with an emphasis on Italian far. We opted for the PEI Muscles as an appetizer which was beautifully presented and tasted as good as it looked.

Entrees were priced from $12 -$26 and there was a three course price fixe option. We chose the rigatoni ala vodka and the seafood scampi. Portions were hearty and prepared well. The seafood was delicious but the scampi sauce and pasta left much to be desired. The rigatoni hit the spot and forced me to move my belt one notch to finish it.

The desert menu offered standard choices so we went with a creme brulee and a Bailey’s chocolate mousse. The mousse was rich and just melted in your mouth, the creme brulee was creamy with a hint of vanilla and caramelized just enough to impart a touch of flavor. Desert was capped off with an Irish coffee.

Reservations are not required but suggested especially for Friday or Saturday night.

Atmosphere: A
Drinks: A
Food: B
Overall: B+

Salem Massachusetts was founded in 1626 and incorporated in 1629. You may recall from history class that there were no automobiles at this time. As such, most of the oldest neighborhoods including the down town area were in close proximity to each other and to the waterfront where Salem’s wealth came from. Luckily for us as Salem grew, it’s core foundation of neighborhoods stayed put and the same roads they walked hundreds of years ago we walk today.

Since many of our visitors stay in the down town or wharf neighborhoods when they come to Salem I ran those locations through the walk score algorithm and came out with a whopping 98 out of 100! So if you are a tourist or are looking for someplace to live where you don’t need a car, Salem is the place for you.

Find the walking score of where you live or where you are going.

With Salem being one of the top tourist destination cities in the US for a variety of reasons, there are plenty of places for the traveler to stay. We have two large hotels, inns, a motel and a plethora of Bed & Breakfasts. For you thrill seekers, some rooms and houses are even said to be haunted.

Where to stay in Salem

Full Service Hotels

• Hawthorne Hotel
  18 Washington Square
• Salem Waterfront Hotel & Suites
  225 Derby Street

Inns

• The Salem Inn
  7 Summer Street

Motel

• The Clipper Ship Inn*
  40 Bridge Street

Bed & Breakfasts

• Amela Payson House
  16 Winter Street
• Coach House Inn*
  284 Lafayette Street
• Henry Derby House
  47 Derby Street
• The Inn on Washington Square
  53 Washington Square North
• Morning Glory Bed & Breakfast
  22 Hardy Street
• Northey Street House
  30 Northey Street
• Stephen Daniels House
  1 Daniels Street
• Stepping Stone Inn
  19 Washington Square North

RV / Camping

• Winter Island Marine Park*
  50 Winter Island Road

* Not within 10 minute walking distance to down town

When to come to the Witch City

As with every other destination when you come determines what you pay. Since Halloween and all things spooky are why many people come to town, October is the most expensive month. What you might not know is Salem visitors start coming in April and don’t slow down until November. The hotels, inn and motel are open year round. If you are interested in a B&B check their sites because many close down November through January or November through April.

Room prices vary from an off season quaint B&B room for under $75 to a King Suite with a wet bar in October for over $300. Here is a simple chart to help figure things out.

January $
February $
March $
April $$
May $$
June $$
July $$
August $$
September $$$
October $$$$
November $
December $

Weekday rates are less expensive than weekends and reservations are recommended (required by most) in September and October.

Other things to consider

Salem is a walking city. With few exceptions ( see above) all of the accommodation’s are in walking distance to all of the attractions. There is no need to drive anywhere in town once you get to Salem. If you are planning to stay at one of the larger hotels parking is included. If you are thinking about a B&B you should call ahead and ask about parking availability. In the off season Salem has plenty of parking but starting in the summer parking gets tight. During October the city enacts a parking ban allowing only residents to park in many of the neighborhoods.

Food for thought

Regardless of where you decide to stay, seeing all that Salem has to offer requires you to keep your energy level up. If you want to stock some food in your room for when you get the late night munchies, keep in mind that Salem has one grocery store in the down town area (and one 24 hour quickie mart). We have many other markets in town but they are not within walking distance.

The hotels have restaurants serving round the clock and the Salem Inn has a dining room with limited service hours. Fear not because Salem is blessed with a variety of great restaurants, cafes and sandwich shops. If you don’t visit some of them you’re Salem trip will really be missing out.

Make sure to bring some good walking shoes and a hearty appetite. You’ll be sure to leave with a smile on your face and some great memories!