Then & Now: Salem
Author:  Jerome M. Curley, Nelson L. Dionne
Publisher:  Arcadia Publishing (February 16, 2009)
Amazon link: Then & Now: Salem

Then & Now: Salem

As you might expect Then & Now: Salem compares life in the Witch City through the photographers lens.  Luckily for us, Salem has been a wealthy city which lead to it being photographed extensively through out the years.   Then & Now: Salem focuses on  the structural, architectural and subsequently the environmental changes which have occurred mostly over the last century.

The photographer replicated images of Salem using the same vantage point as a previous photographer had and displays them side by side allowing the reader to delve into the changes, sometimes an improvement and other times to the detriment of our fair city.  As a photographer myself I would have preferred if the shots were reproduced using the same kind of cameras.  Many of the updated shots were taken with what appears to be a small or medium format camera not allowing the photographer to correct for perspective (which is why in some of the old photos the buildings look straight up and down where as the new shots appear to be leaning).   This discontinuity of perspective in no way effects the impact of how time has treated Salem, it is pure photographer snobbery.

As you know, we at TheSalemInsider.com occasionally do “then & now” posts, it’s a great way to track how our city changes its face from year to year.  Then & Now: Salem allows you to track those changes on a grand scale and gives you and insight to live in a bygone era.

If you are anything like me you will lament the loss of some of these buildings and regret that in the name of progress we demolished true craftsmanship in favor of  a bit more living or working space.  The flip side of that coin is an enlightenment to the downfalls of our forefathers and the ability and responsibility we now have with the current and future projects in town.

Then & Now: Salem is a must have for any true Salemite.  Wether you are a history buff or just want to see the Witch City in a new light as you walk about town, this book gives you a look at our past and a glimpse into our future.

In a future post we will be discussing the disparity of good web designers and developers here in Salem to pathetic websites but you’ll have to wait for that…

On to today’s post.

So, when I moved to Salem I wanted to join the Historical Society. In my previous town I was a member and they were quite active in town. I’m also involved with the Dedham Historical Society and figured Salem would be just as active. Well to my dismay there isn’t really a Salem Historical Society.  Bummer.  What I did find was the Salem History Society, (another stellar website from 1992 maybe).  If you can struggle through their site you would find that they host meetings at Cornerstone Books.  In fact tonight September 9th at 7:30 is there first meeting of fall.   Unfortunately we will be attending the Build Guild so we can’t make it there but if you go let us know how it was.

Getting back to my quest for history.  So the Salem History Society didn’t look to organized nor did they have any offerings at the time I was looking so I moved on.

In my searching I found that the old Historical Society was assimilated quite some time ago by the Borg collective that is the PEM.  My quest almost died there until I did some research on the house plaques you see here in town.  That’s when I discovered Historic Salem Inc. and quickly became a member.  They have done a bunch of tours and programs we’ve reported on in the past.  And they’re at it again.

Have you heard of the Great Salem Fire on June 25th 1914?  Well our friends at HSI are ready to tell you all about it.

Great Salem Fire

The Great Salem Fire started with a series of explosions, caused by a mixture of acetone, amalacitate, alcohol, and celluloid. At 1:37 PM, a fire alarm box was used to report a fire in the Korn leather factory, 57 Boston street.

The fire spread quickly down and across Boston Street. The police department sent out calls to 21 cities for assistance. One industrial department, the Fore River Shipyard, also assisted. Over 90 police men from out of town came to help. The Salem Evening News, (Friday, July 24, 1914, page 11), has a complete list of all responding departments and where and how they worked to fight the fire.

The fire burned 253 acres (1 km²) with 1,376 buildings. The entire loss was estimated at US$15 million; insurance policies paid US$11.744 million. Some 20,000 people lost their homes, 10,000 their jobs, and a few their lives.

Interesting – so what?

Remember last September when everyone was going bonkers over the Samuel McIntire anniversary?  HSI did a series of Fall walking tours and we all learned about McIntire archetechure.  This year their focus is on The Great Salem Fire.

The series will trace the path of the Salem Fire of June 25, 1914 focusing on three distinct neighborhoods.

• September 14, 2008 The General Alarm: The First Streets to go up in Flames
• September 21, 2008 The Conflagration Strikes South Salem
• September 28, 2008 The Fire Swallows Salem’s Jobs: The Point, the Mills, and the Waterfront

So put on your walking shoes – bust out $5 and fire up some of your brain cells, its going to be a fun fall.

Historic Salem Inc. Fall Walking Tour Schedule

Much of the information regarding Salem shops here on TheSalemInsider.com has to do with new businesses in town or changes happening, today we’re jumping in the way back machine and telling you about a fantastic little gem that started 202 years ago and is still going strong today.

A long long time ago (1806) in a town much like this one (actually exactly like this one because, it was this one) a woman from England along with her son were found shipwrecked. With nothing but the generosity from her new neighbors and her candy making recipes this woman started a business. Mrs. Spencer went on to produce the “Salem Gibralter,” said to be the first candy made and sold commercially in America and carried around the world by sea captains and their crew. The company was sold to John William Pepper (for whom it is now named) in 1830 and eventually an employee of Pepper’s purchased the business in the late 1800′s and it has remained in his family ever since.

Today Ye Olde Pepper Companie located across from the House of Seven Gables, still sells some of the same candies it made hundreds of years ago. They even have a jar of candy that was made 175 years ago in their shop and no you can’t try any of it, I asked.

In addition to some olde favorites you can also get a great selection of jelly beans, fudge, chocolates and sugar-free candies for diabetics.

Like any good candy shop worth its weight in errr sugar… you can watch some candies being made right there on premises. Locals, if you’re looking for a great gift or just interested in feeding your sweet tooth head over during the week to avoid the crowds. Tourists, don’t miss this quaint shop when you come to Salem. It really is a sweet surprise.

Gideon Tucker House
Once a single family home this was converted in the 1900′s to condos. I was pleased to see that much of the original feel of a McIntire home was still in this now modern condo. The beautiful fireplaces and great use of space made this an outstanding home. Turning what was probably an unused or underused area (walkway) into a dining nook added much charm to this elegant condo.

Gardner-Pingree House
Owned by the PEM, this house was a treat to tour because it has been restored to its original 1805 grandeur. With no lighting and no heat you were able to better understand how life may have been two hundred years ago. Too many hand carved items to list.

photographer and date unknown

The Emmerton House
Known as the Woman’s Friend Society, formed in 1876 to help girls and women in need, is a charitable organization still helping people (and still accepting donations and volunteers). When I walked in I instantly recognized the home, it is discussed at length in a few books I own. One of it’s most notable features are the two McIntire stair cases.

John Hodges House
There was just too much to take in at this home. One of the stand out features was the staircase with it’s hand carved spindles from the workshop of Mcintire. Three different spindles per step with the base being made of two spindles one set inside the center of the other each carved as opposing spirals.

White-Silsbee House
Once again I walked into a house I have never been in but knew like the back of my hand. Most of the photos I have seen of this home were taken in 1930 but all of the relevant features have been preserved. The parlor and sitting room oppose each other with fireplaces at either end, the rooms being sectioned by a three panel foldout door. Also of note the original stove. The dining room however was magnificent. With the original wood mantle being discarded in the Victorian era, a black marble mantle was put in it’s place. Vastly surpassing the fireplace was the original 18th century French wall paper depicting the four climate regions of the earth. Having been in many of the great homes in this country I can tell you this is a rare treasure, one which needs to be preserved. It simply is breathtaking.

Forrester-Peabody House/Bertram House
Known as the Home for Aged Men, this is another example of a historically relevant home being used for charitable purposes and keeping much of it’s architectural value. I was impressed with how warm and inviting the large rooms were. It gave you a sense of how the architect envisioned the usage of space. The most impressive feature of this home had to be the massive dining room. I wonder if it originally was used as a dining room or perhaps a ballroom. The dining room ceilings had to be at least 18 feet high (the guide did not know the height) with over 1 foot high crown moldings surrounding the room. Once again I was simply awestruck. It reminded me of the Red Room in the White House which has a ceiling height of 20 to 22 feet (depending on who you believe).

Pierce-Nichols House
McIntire’s first commission at the ripe old age of 24. There is a wealth of information about this home available. It is a must see for any student of the Federal period.

Benjamin Carpenter House
Unfortunately this is the only house on the tour where I felt someone dropped the ball. While the home was beautiful, the volunteers knew nothing about any of the rooms or the pieces in those rooms. Not to dwell on the negative, the library was both comfortable and livable while also being a fine showpiece.

Cottington-Smith Assembly House
Did I happen to mention it was bitterly cold this weekend? Thankfully this house which is used as a lecture hall and meeting place was set up to serve hot tea and coffee. George Washington once danced and dined here.

Cook-Oliver House
Some wonderful examples of McIntire’s woodcarvings, both on the exterior and interior of this home. The parlor features hand-cut chair rail and the quintessential McIntire wheat sheath mantle. The original crown molding was removed in 1902 (I believe) and sold to the Metropolitan Museum in New York. If you pay attention in this home you will notice quite a few examples of modern art, an interesting juxtaposition. This home was last opened 50 years ago for the 200th anniversary of McIntire.

Dodge-Shreve House
Again we find a strong oriental influence in this home. The dining room in addition to beautiful origami swans on the dinner settings was papered with Chinese tea paper, original to the home.

Johnathan Hodges House
The only house on Chestnut Street to be built by McIntire. The volunteers in this home did a great job of explaining many of the details of this home. I was amused by the story of Capt. Hodges near demise. The use of large antique mirrors made the already spacious rooms look even bigger.

sketch of floor plan by McIntire

Robinson-Little House
Standing out from other homes on the tour the first floor of this house was remodeled in the early 19oo’s. It features a rich mahogany interior, unique as it is not wood paneling but wood veneer laid out over stretched fabric with the cross molding pieces set atop the veneer. Also standing out from other homes on the tour, the McIntire fireplaces were not monochrome but had the relief painted “Wedgwood” blue on two of the fireplaces. A bonus feature for people on the tour, the owners had a few printed out sheets and old photos describing the history of the home and a few of the relevant pieces inside.

Hamilton Hall
This year the great space of Hamilton Hall was consumed by a Christmas fair. Luckily this building is open much of the year and available for private functions.

photo from this past summer’s walking tours

Loring-Emerton House
Another condo that just changes how you think about condos. The McIntire influence on this home is evident. Walking through the portico into the foyer you are greeted by a staircase featuring the same spindle work as the John Hodges house. Once in the home I was blown away by the domed bedroom ceiling, not to mention the seamless integration of a modern bathroom and kitchen into a classical interior. One of the best features had to be the one person seating/reading nook tucked in one of the rear rooms.

Final Thoughts

As is the case each year, I had a great time. I learned so much an was inspired by what I saw. A big thank you goes out to Historic Salem Inc., all the home owners who graciously opened their homes and all the volunteers that made the event a success.

I would love to know what you thought about this years house tour.

There is a delicate balance between knowing what to save and what to let go. I used to horde magazines, photography magazines, work-out magazines, home improvement it didn’t matter. As long as there was some information in there that I though was relevant I would keep it so I could use it some day. When it came time for me to move out of an apartment I lived in for 10 years I went through all those magazines and asked if what they had to offer me was worth me keeping them. Most of them went unceremoniously into the dumpster. When I walk about town and look at some of the older buildings I must come to the same conclusion I did with my magazines. Some of these buildings no longer have anything offer the city and must go.

So it is with the old Salem News building. At one point this building was a beautiful structure with people coming and going all day and night. It took up an entire block and was home to thriving businesses. Over the years bootblacks, pawn- brokers, tobacconists, tailors, photo studios and even an olde tyme Chinese laundry called this building home.
Old Salem News Building – date and photographer unknown

In 2001 the Salem News moved out of the old building above on the corner of Front and Washington and the Edgewater Cafe moved in. Further down Washington (on the right side of the phot0) the news building continues as a wooden structure (previously known as the Arrington Block) erected in 1874. From what I can tell, the wooden part of the News Building has been vacant since 2001. With nobody up keeping the building it has been left to rot and fall apart, becoming an eyesore in the down town area.

Salem News building today

I hate to see old buildings die but just looking at this structure you can tell it really is beyond repair. Thankfully it is not some architectural marvel, nor does it hold immense historical significance. It played a part in our down town for quite some time but its time has passed. It must go in order for the area to thrive again.

The demo crews have sectioned the area off and hopefully anything of value can be salvaged (maybe I’ll sneak in there and take a peek). The structure should be razed by the end of the year and according to the Salem News:

RCG has already started the permitting process for its new building and hopes to gets all its approvals by the spring and complete construction in 2009. Under the current plan, there will be 31 residences – condominiums or apartments – and a minimum of 36 parking spaces.

For a city to thrive, new life must be interjected to its current existence. I also feel that preserving history and remembering the past allows us to have a unique perspective on the future. So while we can mourn the passing of a piece of Salem’s history we should look forward to what will come.

Salem is attracting more young professionals and desperately needs this area of downtown to be fresh and inviting. Removing this building, acknowledging what it has given us and moving our community into a new phase of evolution is why Salem has endured for 400 years. With the right vision and sense of community perhaps it can make it a few hundred more.