As we say every year, whether you are a foodie or not this is a great opportunity to try out something new and save a few bucks while doing it. Keep in mind that this is a busy event so reservations are encouraged.

Participating Restaurants

62 Restaurant and Wine Bar (Three-Course $25)
62 Wharf Street, Salem, MA – (978) 744-0062

Adriatic Restaurant and Bar (Three-Course $25)
155 Washington Street, Salem, MA – (978) 594-1832

Bella Verona (Three-Course $25)
107 Essex Street, Salem, MA – (978) 825-9911

Cafe Polonia (Two-Course $15 & Three-Course $25)
118 Washington Street, Salem, MA – (978) 745-0045

Capt’s Waterfront Grill & Club (Three-Course $25)
94 Wharf Street, Salem, MA – (978) 741-0555

Cilantro (Three-Course $25)
282 Derby Street, Salem, MA – (978) 745-9436

Finz Seafood Restaurant & Grill (Three-Course $25)
76 Wharf Street, Salem, MA – (978) 744-0000

Grapevine Restaurant (Three-Course $25)
26 Congress Street, Salem, MA – (978) 745-9335

Great Escape (Three-Course $25)
50 St Peter Street, Salem, MA – (978) 745-5022

Green Land Cafe (Three-Course $25)
87 Washington Street, Salem, MA – (978) 744-7766

Lakay Island Restaurant (Three-Course $25)
168 Essex Street, Salem, MA – (978) 744-2308

The Lobster Shanty (Two-Course $15 & Three-Course $25)
25 Front Street, Salem, MA – (978) 745-5449

The Lyceum (Three-Course $25)
43 Church Street, Salem, MA – (978) 745-7665

Nathaniel’s at the Hawthorne Hotel (Three-Course $25)
18 Washington Square West, Salem, MA – (978) 825-4311

Regatta Pub at the Waterfront Hotel (Two-Course $15 & Three-Course $25)
225 Derby Street, Salem, MA – (978) 740-8788

Restaurant Gioia & Wine Bar (Three-Course $25)
140 Washington Street, Salem, MA – 140 Washington Street, Salem, MA

Rockafellas (Three-Course $25)
231 Essex Street, Salem, MA – (978) 745-2411

Salem Beers Works (Three-Course $25)
278 Derby Street, Salem, MA – (978) 745-233

Seaport Cafe (Two-Course $15 & Three-Course $25)
215 Derby Street, Salem, MA – (978) 594-8490

Tavern in the Square (Three-Course $25)
189 Washington Street, Salem, MA – (978) 740-2337

Thai Place (Two-Course $15 & Three-Course $25)
Museum Place Mall, Salem, MA – (978) 741-8008

Victoria Station (Three-Course $25)
86 Wharf Street, Salem, MA – (978) 745-3400

Salem Harvest Fest

Salem’s Annual Harvest Fest is a seasonal celebration of great craft beer, fine wine & mead. This year the event will be held at the Knights of Columbus hall 94 Washington Square on the Salem Common (by the playground).  As always there will be live music, giveaways & tons of fun.  We have always had a great time at the Harvest Fest and this year looks to continue that tradidtion.
You can sample beers from various brewers including: Magic Hat, Cape Ann Brewing, Harpoon, Cody Brewing, Mayflower Brewing, Dogfish Head, Berkshire Brewing, Left Hand, Clown Shoes, Naragansett, Ipswich and Stone Cat. Plus over 50 wines from around the world.

The Harvest Fest is held in two sessions.
Session One: 2 – 4:30 pm
Session Two: 5:30 – 8 pm

Ticket are $25 advance/$30 day of event (tickets give you entry to the festival, live music and food. Free sampling of wine/beer)
Buy your tickets now at  SalemHarvestFest.com or in person at Pamplemousse, 185 Essex St., Salem.

SAT did a few videos of last years Harvest Fest, it gives you a peek into what this is all about.

Vampyre with Baby

We at The Salem Insider threw our annual Halloween season kick-off bender this past Saturday and are ready for the impending tourist marathon. Even though the first weekend in October is when the city becomes decorated and the traffic becomes unbearable, the official start to Salem’s Haunted Happenings isn’t until Thursday10.07.10.

Haunted Happenings 15th Annual Grand Parade

• Thursday October 7th from 6:30pm – 8:00pm
• Beginning at Shetland Park and ending at Salem Common.
• This year’s event theme is “Around the World”. The theme reflects Salem great maritime history and allows for parade participants to dress up as a mariner or a pirate, a penguin or maybe a Sumo wrestler! The choice of costumes for this year’s parade is endless! The Parade will leave from Shetland Properties on Congress St. turning left onto Derby St., right onto Lafayette St., left onto Front St., right onto Washington St., right onto the Essex St. Pedestrian Mall and finish in the Salem Common where DJ Doug will entertain all.

Also coming up this weekend:

Haunted BizBaz Street Fair

• Saturday October 9th & 10th
• Essex St., & Hawthorne Blvd. will be closed to vehicle traffic and fully stocked with vendors of all shapes and sizes

Salem Zombie Walk 10.10.10

• Sunday, October 10 at 3:00pm
• Fun begins at Collins Cove where there will be plenty of fun zombie activities
• The walk begins at 5pm and staggers though the city ending up at the Lobster Shanty where they will be serving brains. BRAINS!!!!

This is a clip from last years Zombie Walk.  Get inspired and go all out.  The Zombie Walk is a fun time independently grown by locals and always a treat to watch.

app open screen

From the iTunes app store:

Description

This App is the Official Guide to Salem, Massachusetts.

It features information on events, accommodations, museums, attractions, tours, dining, and shopping information.

Located just 16 miles north of Boston, Salem is an easy connection via car, train, or seasonal Ferry. It has never been easier to explore Salem, Massachusetts – America’s Bewitching Seaport!

Having witnessed first hand the creation of some outstanding apps and, with my background as a developer, I have a unique insight that most people don’t have in regards to what it takes to build a quality app. One of the most important facets of building an app is delivering quality information that your users are looking for. Since Salem is a tourist destination, there should be no shortage of quality information.  There are so many great things to see and do in Salem that the hardest part should be organizing the information into easily digestible bites.  The downside of building a quality app of this magnitude is that it takes a lot of money, obviously more money than their budget allowed.

In building this app, Salem used Mobilaurus, a MA based cookie cutter app shop. They focus on building out a very basic framework that organizations can then add content to. If you were to download apps for Cape Cod, Providence, or Denver you would see the same app architecture with different content.

The app features four primary sections; events, great deals, what to do and tickets.

Events

Events page

With festivals, live music, exhibits, classes and a multitude of community organized events I expected the events page to be overflowing with content. I was quite disappointed. The events page only showed a total of 7 events when I set the dates from August 19th to the 22nd.  Also, as you can see from the above screen grab, many of the events listed are outside of the dates I queried for.

Great Deals

Great Deals

The Great Deals section is a bit more robust. It defaults to showing the current week’s deals, but you can change the dates and look ahead (this is a great feature for tourists or for planning an upcoming adventure). Great Deals is broken down to subsections, including Accommodations, Dining, On the Water and more. Most of these deals are published elsewhere on the web if you want to go looking for them, but to have them available at your fingertips is a bonus for bargain hunters. The downside here is that I know of more bargains than are displayed on this page.

What To Do

What To do - Accommodations - BnB - Salem Inn

The most extensive section of the app is the What To Do section, with 9 sub sections, including Accommodations, Attractions, Shopping and Visitor Information.  If you are looking for some place to stay in Salem, you could click over to What To Do -> Accommodations -> Bed&Breakfasts/Inns  -> Salem Inn (or any of the other fine places to stay). Here you would find a link to map the location, a photo, small description and contact info.

The downside is all the Neighborhood fields say “Salem” nothing is broken down further. In Salem, we have very distinct neighborhoods, all with different charm. Staying in the McIntyre district is quite different than the Wharf, which is different than the Common area and so on. Another oversight is the ability to check the ratings of these places. Most people research an establishment before staying there, so a link to something as simple as Yelp would be quite helpful, as would showing the number of stars a place has.

forever waiting for the app to load

One of the big problems with this app is overall poor programming. For every picture you are trying to load, the app must then pull a crappy quality image from some online image repository. So, you’re not even being treated to a beautiful photograph for the constant loading screen you have to sit through.

Dining

The same lack of forethought and attention to detail that is exhibited in the Accommodations section is also prevalent in the Dining section. You would never know by looking at the listing what a hidden gem Bella Verona is. The app tells you nothing about the food, atmosphere, price point or service. Again, a small description and link to a review would be very helpful.

I could continue with this section, but by now I’m sure you see the pattern that is emerging.

Tickets

The final section we will be looking at is the Ticket section. I was most excited for this because I thought it would be great if a tourist staying in Boston could buy their Salem Ferry ticket through the app, then schedule the typical touristy stuff like a visit to the House of Seven Gables and the Witch Museum. Well, you can imagine my disappointment when I found out that there are only three ticketing options; the Philips House Museum (nice, but not high on the tourist priority list), the Schooner Fame (fun, but again, not a “must do”) and the Salem Trolley (this is the best option for getting around if you are a tourist).

My overall assessment of the Salem, MA iPhone app

This app is a great idea with a ton of potential, but it falls flat in almost every aspect. I’ve seen this happen before when a client is in a rush to get their app into the market, but doesn’t ensure that it’s fully functional, debugged and stocked with content.

I can’t really blame the Salem Office of Tourism and Cultural Affairs, they are a small, quazi-government agency doing the best they can on the meager budget they have. They probably didn’t have the expertise they needed to go into a project like this. Perhaps they should have consulted with the folks over at North Shore Happy Hour, a group of iPhone developers that meet right here in Salem.

How could this app be better?

Three simple steps which would make major improvements:

First order of business is for Destination Salem to insist that their vendor fix the defects in the app. There is no reason to show bad information or return results that are outside the scope of the query. When I am looking for info from September, I don’t want results from July.

Second is to get more relevant content, make the 100 clicks it takes to get to a restaurant result worth while to the end user. Partner up with a reviewing service like Yelp or Google or even a local blogs (TheSalemInsider.com or North Shore Dish come to mind).

Third, offer local businesses a way to get their info into the app. I notice that many of the businesses in the app are also businesses that Destination Salem tweets about often. Does one have to pay to get listed? There should be a simple online form on their website where a business (or organization or event) could upload their info and have it added to the app.

Who knows, maybe there is an iPhone developer who is willing to work with Destination Salem to build a better app. Or perhaps Destination Salem needs to get a group of people together to really take this project over the top. Heck, if they don’t maybe there needs to be an “unofficial” guide to Salem app.

Forrest Frazier is a Sr. Web Developer at Mullen in Boston, MA and is co-founder of Malign Design. He has worked with Fortune 100 companies in launching websites and iPhone apps. A Salem resident, he can often be found in a coffee shop or watering hole writing code.

Tall Ship Peacemaker

Tall Ship, Peacemaker, is currently docked at Central Wharf in Salem, MA. The Peacemaker is open to the public for free from August 10 to 22, 10am to 7pm on weekdays, and 10am to 9pm on the weekends. It’s a great opportunity to go aboard a working barquentine vessel and get a feel for how life may have been.

Photo courtesy of HipSalem.com

About the Peacemaker

According to wikipedia

The Peacemaker, originally named Avany, was built on a riverbank in southern Brazil using traditional methods and tropical hardwoods, and was launched in 1989. The original owner and his family motored in the southern Atlantic Ocean before bringing the ship up through the Caribbean to Savannah, Georgia, where they intended to rig it as a three-masted staysail Marconi rigged motor sailer. The work was never done, however, and in the summer of 2000, it was purchased by the Twelve Tribes, a religious group with 50 or so communities in North and South America, Europe, and Australia. They spent the next seven years replacing all of the ship’s mechanical and electrical systems and rigging it as a barquentine. The refit vessel set sail for the first time in the spring of 2007, under the name Peacemaker.

About the Twelve Tribes

The owners of Peacemaker are almost as interesting as the ship. While the name “Twelve Tribes” may imply a Jewish connection but this religious group claims to be nondenominational. Created by Gene Spriggs, a hippie Jesus Freak in the early 1970′s when cult movements were as prevalent as Volkswagen micro buses, this church has endured for almost 40 years.

Spriggs and his hippie followers started recruiting in 1972, soon micro churches started popping up in the South. Each church complete with communal living for is members, was  funded by a restaurant chain called “The Yellow Deli” where it’s members worked. In 1976, a Yellow Deli sprung up in Island Pond VT, owned and operated by The Northeast Kingdom Community Church. During the 80′s the church experienced some legal issues, including a raid where the government seized 112 children from their compounds. The raid was later deemed unconstitutional and by the late 80′s their legal troubles had come to pass.

Through the 1990′s the church went global setting up shop in Canada, Australia, Brazil, Spain, Germany, Argentina, and the United Kingdom. Still clinging to the communal lifestyle, home schooling, cottage businesses (with a reach into organic farming) and secretive wedding rituals (not unlike what is portrayed in the HBO series Big Love) the church again found itself in various legal troubles involving child labor, kidnapping shenanigans and failure to follow government mandated home schooling requirements.

Currently the ship is used as a promotional tool, educational vessel and method to transport its founder to the various locations owned by the church.

Wednesday October 28th, 2009

SYNTH: 80′s party with Darq

Synth: an 80's Halloween party

Tonight from 8:30-12:30 at Bangkok Paradise we get a special treat and get enjoy a decade with a DARQ twist! DJ Alvis, DJ Zombi and VuDu DJ will spin your 80′s favorites only spookier! And the 2nd annual Halloween Thriller Costume Contest will be held. Cash & prizes for best 80s costume, best non-80s costume & a grand prize for best in show! And best of all: NO COVER CHARGE. More info at myspace.com/decade80snight

Thursday October 29th, 2009

The Dumb Supper: Dinner with the Dead

Dumb Supper

The Hawthorne Hotel plays host to one of the most interesting events of the Halloween season, the Dumb Supper.  This dining event presented by the Salem Witches honors the dead with a “sumptuous dinner” observed in silence as touching music plays. The concept behind the Dumb Supper is great, by remaining quiet, you will open your heart and mind to those who have crossed over.  However the $100 a head price tag behind this vegetarian only meal will leave foodies an people concerned with the recession perplexed.

For more info about the night including the menu and to buy tickets check out FestivalOfTheDead.com.

Friday October 30th, 2009

The Official Salem Witches’ Halloween Ball

The official Salem Witches Ball

Join DJ Addambombb (you may remember him from last weeks Vampyre Ball)  as he spins a mix of pop, rock and goth at the Hawthorne Hotel from 7:30pm – 12:30am.  Unlike many Salem events during the Halloween season Witches’ Halloween Ball is an 18+  party.  Tickets are an exorbitant $150 but for many this is the best Halloween party out there and only event they will attend.  You can also win a $1,000 prize in the mythical monsters themed costume contest.

Parking in Salem for new residents

If you are a new resident of the city of Salem you might find that the area where you have been parking (if you park on street) in is blocked or reserved in October. Head over to the parking clerk or city hall and bring a utility bill and your car registration with you.  You can get a month of October pass which will let you park in resident parking areas.

Where should I park?

There are quite a few parking lots in the main tourist areas of Salem in addition to on street metered spots and the two garages.  We built a map to help you out a bit.

View Salem MA Parking Map in a larger map

How much will it cost?

Most metered spots cost $0.50 per hour and are enforced Monday through Saturday from 8am to 6pm.  Some spots have a max of 2 hours while others are only good for one.  Read the label on the meter to find out how much you need to pay. Some people try to park in one spot all day and just feed the meter every two hours.  However, depending on what meter maid is working the area you are parking in you might find yourself with a “meter feeding” ticket.  People who work down town have learned to move their car every few hours, tourists usually take a chance by feeding the meter but this can end in a big fat orange ticket.

Due to the success Salem is seeing with its robust nightlife, the parking garages now charge until 2am on Thursday – Saturday (Sunday morning) and are a flat fee of $20 on weekends in October.  Your best bet might be the MBTA commuter rail lot at $4.00 a day.  The walk to down town is a few minutes longer but ad the end of the day those few minutes will save you frustration and $16.00 As an added bonus the Salem News is reporting that funds have been approved for a six story 750 – 900 car garage at the commuter rail lot to be finished by 2011.

Because Salemites have such a “unique” fashion sense Stacy and Clinton from TLC’s What Not To Wear came to town to pay one lucky person a visit.  In addition to shutting down some streets, and towing some cars, they filmed some of our Puritans and Witches.

People gathered to watch as variety of shots were filmed around Derby Square and the Old Town Hall. The show hosts then filmed the initial interview with the person getting a makeover inside Old Town Hall.

Keep an eye out for the big reveal being filmed next week and the episode to air on TLC some time in February.

Special thanks to Forrest Frazier for supplying the photos for this post.

Action

assembly in the town square

working hard or hardly working

Stacy and Clinton with the townspeople

being chased by the angy mob

Salem Ferry the Bowditch

As a person who has to travel to Boston more often come June 1st, I’ve been looking at taking the Salem Ferry once in a while.  The Salem Ferry is a 92-foot high-speed catamaran with a capacity of 149 passengers. It makes the trip between Salem and Boston in 45 minutes that’s about 10 minutes longer than the commuter rail but if you are going to the financial district your overall trip may be shorter.

As with any method of transportation the Salem Ferry has it’s pros and cons. Aside from a season opening fire a few years back, some of the obvious cons are price, weather and schedule.

The price of a round trip ferry ride is $24 ($20 off season) commuters can get a 10 ride pass (one week) for $54.  Compared to the commuter rail which is $163 a month the ferry costs $53 dollars MORE!

If you are a 9 to 5 worker you would have to take the boat at 7am getting you to Long Wharf at 7:55 (that’s 10 minutes longer than they claim it takes, maybe it’s the “new math”).  Then heading out of Boston there is a 5:10 or 7:10.  It’s like they missed the obvious departure times.  For this to be worthwhile to the commuter it should depart Salem around 8am and arrive in Boston around 8:45 then for the evening commute depart around 6 and arrive in Salem around 6:45.

Is the Salem Ferry only for tourists?

It looks like the schedule and time isn’t very conducive for the daily Salem to Boston commuter but what about tourists?

The Boston dock for the Salem ferry is centrally located at Long Wharf, right near the Aquarium, Faneuil Hall, the North End and plenty of other tourist locations, hotels and restaurants.  If you are a tourist going to Boston you will no-doubt find yourself near they ferry so it’s quite convenient.  Let’s face it, taking a boat through the harbor islands and up along the coast is much more fun than the MBTA’s Orange line to North Station then a commuter train through Everett, Chelsea and Lynn on your way to Salem.  Sure it costs a few bucks more but when you get off the boat in Salem you are right by the House of Seven Gables, a big attraction for Salem tourists.

Splitting the difference

If you are someone who prefers a more enjoyable commute but can’t fathom a 7am departure, maybe splitting the difference is the way to go.  Why not take the train in to Boston in the morning and then decompress with a leisurely cruise home?  We forgot to mention one of the Salem Ferry’s strong points – their on board bar.  What would be better than soaking up the late afternoon rays, enjoying the ocean scenery as you zip away from Boston sipping on an adult beverage?  Looks like for us Salemites taking the ferry once in a while could be the best of both worlds.

The Salem Ferry opens for service on May 22 with its summer schedule going into effect on June 20.  Tickets can be purchased at the ferry or online.  Visit salemferry.com for schedule and other info.

Mobile Command Vehicle

It seemed like a rather tame Halloween with an estimated 100,000 people coming in to town.  More were expected due to the great weather and the holiday falling on a Friday.  Perhaps all the hype of a massive crush into Salem kept some revelers away or maybe it was the large number of private parties held around town that kept people off the street.  People seemed to have a fun time but there were less people in costume than previous years and of those costumed many less slutty naughty costumes were seen (much to our dismay).

Here are a few photos we took, more are available on our flickr page.  If you have some photos you’d like to share drop us a link or post one in the comments.

Good Witch

Misfits

Vampre with Baby

Princess Leia loves PRB

Satan and the God squad

Tomorrow it will be absolutely bonkers in Salem.  The weather is looking good and this year Halloween is on a Friday night.  Last year over 100,000 people came to Salem to celebrate and I predict we will get much more than that this year.

If you are coming to Salem for the first time or maybe you are an annual visitor or perhaps a new resident, you might enjoy this little refresher list of do’s and dont’s.

Salem Streets on Halloween

DO come early and take public transportation.  The T has added extra commuter rail trains to Salem and extended the hours of those leaving last trains to Boston, 11 to 11:24 p.m.; last trains to Newburyport, 11:26 p.m.; last train to Rockport, 12:38 a.m.  DON’T plan on parking anywhere near down town if you drive in after noon.  If you have to drive you will be walking a distance.

DO wear something comfortable.  I know you want to wear that slutty witch costume with the 8 inch f**k me boots, and we want to see you in it but remember that many of our streets are cobblestone or brick.  DO consider the size of your costume as you will be packed in like sardines whether on the street or in a bar.  DON’T freak out when you get stopped every 5 seconds because someone wants to take a picture of you looking like a bondage Tickle Me Elmo in a gimp outfit.

Naughty Halloween Costumes

DON’T expect a prime spot at your favorite bar.  DO use the opportunity to chat up people so they will give you their bar stool when they leave.

Speaking of drinking, DON’T bring a glass bottle of jagermeister with you.  I’ve seen too many people trip over their own costume or someone elses, packing glass is a bad idea.  DO patronize your favorite watering hole or have a cocktail at home.  If you must bring a beverage with you, use a flask.

View from Bar on Halloween

DO take the time to walk all around down town.  The streets will be blocked off from Washington Street from New Derby to Lynde streets; Derby Street from Lafayette to Congress streets; Hawthorne Boulevard from Derby to Essex streets; Washington Square west and south; Essex Street from Barton Square to Union Street.  Live bands and DJ’s will be set up on all of the streets with different types of music playing.  DON’T stay in one spot, you’ll miss out on so much of whats going on.  At least do one jog around town and plop yourself at your favorite spot.

The City wants to close things down at 10:30 pm ,well before you are done partying.  DON’T wait to get into a bar or restaurant no lines will be allowed after 10:45.  DO plan on being inside somewhere or being moved along by the massive contingent of coppers.

Cops on Halloween

If you are not comfortable in large crowds DO come early and leave early or take a valium.   DON’T expect people to make a path for you to move.   DO be polite, it will get you much further than being a tool.

We will be out having fun and taking pictures but if you have a great photo you would like to share with us send it over and we will post a bunch on Monday.

The Salem start-up isn’t the only walking tour available, Untravel Media a Boston based company offers a variety of tours one of them being Seeking Sanctuary in Salem.  This walking tour was written and mapped out by Salem filmmaker Mike Boudo.

Already in the tours business for the past 92 years is the National Parks Service.  They offer “audio tours” of various Salem sites owned or run by the NPS.

We decided to check out these downloadable tours and give you the low down.

Format

All of these tour providers offer MP3 download formats.  Seeing as though Apple has sold over 100 million ipods (1 in 3 Americans own an ipod or mp3 player) formats other than mp3 are not needed. However Untravel Media goes the extra mile and offers not only audio downloads but M4V video as well and has a windows mobile OS download option for people with Crackberrys and the like.

Cost

Tourists are already spending money getting to their destination and especially these days every penny counts.  Iseesalem.com and the NPS have free downloads of their tours while at Untravel Media you will fork out $6.99 for any of their three versions of the tour.

Narration & production quality

If I’m going to listen to someone talk to me about Salem I want it to be a pleasant experience. If you’ve ever been to a National Park and used one of their “press this button” features to hear or see some multimedia about whatever you’re looking at you know this is nothing short of professional, one might say the industry standard. The Salem audio tours are cut from the same cloth, professional voice actors with clear elocution, good use of ambient sounds, clean consistent sound and volume featuring male narration.

Iseesalem.com does a good job with a clean recording although it does feel as if it were recorded in a small room.  The female narrator does a fine job reading an informative script. These tours offer no actor portrayals and ambient sounds limited only to royalty free music when directions are given to the next location on the tour,  keeping the emphasis on the narration.

Untravel Media sits on the other end of the spectrum offering ambient sounds, background music, actor portrayals, interviews, and narration.  The male narrator is not as polished as the NPS narrator but offers much more enthusiasm and character.  Recording quality of the different segments changes widely in some places the audio noise and background sound shows the user that many of the interviews must have been done on location, it’s not distracting but it is noticeable.  They do go above board with a nice selection of photographs from interiors, exteriors and of the people talking during the audio tour.  They do a great job instructing you where to walk but the photographic cues are a true bonus for users of video ipods.

Do they deliver what they promise?

The National Park Services says of their Audio Tour of Salem Maritime:

The tour takes about an hour to complete, and consists of ten stops within the nine acre site. The stops are marked on the map, which is available here in pdf format

Each of the 10 downloadable files are between 2:45 and 7:04 minutes long and quite informative.  Using the accompanying map you move from place to place and once there listen to a new file.  This is truly an audio tour as opposed to a walking tour as there are no walking directions or comments on what you see as you walk from one location to the next.

When we did the tour with four adults and two children it took us just over an hour.  This tour delivers exactly what they claim.

Iseesalem.com says of their tours:

Download these free walking tour podcasts and enjoy learning about Salem’s history at your pace.  You will discover tales of Salem’s famous residents, long nautical history, haunted sites, witch history, and more!

Currently they offer 3 downloadable files with two “coming soon” (we need to add a special section for “coming soon” to our web site post) ranging in length from 6:28 to 6:52 minutes and walking from location to location took us about 45 minutes for the Revolutionary War tour and slightly less for the other tours.

While not as leisurely as the NPS tour these tours did offer directions to the next location.  Unlike the NPS tours their “click here (*ahem*) to download a map” doesn’t actually download a map, it opens up google maps with points plotted.

These tours are free to download, they offer directions and you can take it at your own pace so once again their claims true.

Untravel Media says of their tour:

The first part of the tour highlights buildings that are on the grounds of the Peabody Essex Museum. Through their foresight, some of Salem’s oldest and grandest architecture is being preserved.

The last part of the tour takes you to the Salem Maritime Historical Site which has preserved a number of waterfront buildings including the Narbonne House and oversaw the building of the 1797 replica “Friendship” merchant vessel.

While Untravel Media offers a bunch of tours only one is devoted to Salem.  They go above and beyond by being concerned with your safety and pointing out facts that only insiders know.  You get much more from this tour than you would from reading books or any of the available tourist literature.  I would like to see better photography (only applies to video ipod downloads) and some info is a tad dated (no more horse drawn carriages, sorry).

The format holds true to the description as the tour takes you from downtown by the PEM and Visitors Center through some of the PEM grounds, across the common and down to the Wharf.

Is it worth it?

The NPS tours give you some good info in a professional manor but having been at some of the houses I have to say that your best bet is a tour given by one of the Park Rangers.  If the Rangers are not available these tours are a fine substitute.  And since they are free you have nothing to loose.

As for iseesalem.com’s tours you might want to listen to them before you head out.  They do offer some good facts to know but as for a walking tour they don’t hold up to our other two options.  Once again they are free so judge for yourself.

Untravel Media is exceptional and exactly what I want out of an audio walking tour. As I said earlier, they are the only tour offered by these three companys that you have to purchase but, I think its worth it.  If you don’t want to be bothered with other tourists, set your own walking pace and still see some sites and learn some tid-bits, spending $7 for a tour you can enjoy over and over again is a bargan as compaired to some of the guided tours of Salem costing $10 or more.

Witch City Motorcycle Run for MDA

Last year we reported that Boston Harley-Davidson (the ride organizer) had been purchased by Bruce Rossmeyer (a big deal in the Harley world) and that he had breathed new life back into the old ride.   As you know, Rossmeyer recently opened the Salem Harley shop on the Essex Street Pedestrian Mall.  This year he along with a few celebrity’s will be  leading the parade in what promises to be a large and impressive ride.

The parade route is supposed to be similar to last years with the procession making its way down Lafayette to Derby around 2pm this Sunday October 19th.  The streets get lined with onlookers early so stake your claim.  I’m looking forward to seeing some great photos and video from this years ride.

Since the weather is predicted to be great for riding plan on an additional 4000 plus people in town.  Also, keep in mind that getting lunch or dinner in Salem will be a bit tighter than a normal weekend day in October so make your plans with that in mind.

Corn Stalk Decorations

This morning I saw our intrepid city workers carting out trucks full of fresh cut corn stalks and tying them to every available light post and street sign they could find.  Just think in a mere 36 days they will be dry enough to turn into flaming pop-corn dispensers by drunken revelers.

This year Halloween in Salem (and everywhere else for that matter) is on a Friday.  It’s going to be a freaking mad house!  There are so many great parties going on all through the month, starting with our Insiders Open House and coming to a climax with over 100,000 people swarming Salem’s down town on October 31st.

We will keep you abreast of all the great on goings in our fair city but be forewarned this is the first big weekend.  Perhaps the rain will keep some people away however, look for parking to go into lockdown with higher prices at the lots, more enforcement at the meters and resident parking stickers reqired on most streets.  You can head over to our parking primer for more details.

1. Frolic in the Common – The Salem Common is 9.5 acres of open space park in central Salem.  The park which dates back to the 17th century has been used for a variety of things over the past 300+ years. Take a peek at the plaque under the flagpole for some history you might not know about.  Today people play sports, listen to music or just catch some rays in this convenient Washington Square location.
2. Forest River Park – A short ride away from down town Salem, Forest River Park boasts walking and bike riding trails, a public pool, shoreline, swimming, and the occasionally open Pioneer Village America’s first living history museum.
3. Ropes Mansion Garden – Nestled behind the Ropes Mansion (318 Essex Street), a 1727 Georgian style home renovated in 1894 in the Colonial Revival style is one of the most beautiful gardens open to the public on the North Shore.  The Ropes Garden  was designed and laid out in 1912 by John Robinson. It is a Colonial Revival garden—open to the public free of charge.
4. Trolley Tours – We’ve talked at length about the great trolley tours available in Salem. Rain or shine its a fun way to see Salem.  It’s especially fun in the nice weather because you can jump on or off all day and walk from stop to stop if you wish.
5. Salem Willows Park -  Back in 1858 the peninsula at the tip of Salem harbor became a municipal park known as Salem Willows.  It had a wooden horse carousel, the Charleshurst Ballroom and beautiful weeping willow trees.  Today the ballroom is long gone but in its place is an arcade, plenty of food options and that same 175 year old carousel.
6. Walking Tours – Readers of this site know that Salem scored a 98 for “walkability” so it just makes sense that there are some great walking tours of our fair city.  You can download 4 different tours free from the National Park Service or walk over to the Visitors Center and pick them up.  You can also just follow the red line on Salem’s sidewalks.  This red line goes through many of the historical and retail districts in town eventually looping back to where you started.
7. Ride a Bike – Over the past few years Salem has become quite bike friendly adding bike parking racks at a few bars/restaurants and a series of single racks through out town.  With Salem Cycle leading the charge bike paths have been instituted with discussions in the works for a cohesive  multi-town path.  If you don’t have a bike of  your own rentals are available by the hour, day, weekend or week.
8. Take a Schooner ride – One of the best ways to see Salem and it’s islands is from the water.  Luckily the Schooner Fame operates from late May to Halloween offering daily sails.  The Fame of Salem, is a replica of the successful privateer from the War of 1812. Tickets may be purchased at their ticket booth outside the Victoria Station restaurant on Wharf Street with sails  lasting approximately one hour and forty-five minutes.
9. Discover a Fort and Lighthouse – Winter Island Marine Park is home to Fort Pickering and the Fort Pickering Light.  The park is easily accessible via trolley and offers self guided walking tours where you can discover the remnants of Fort Pickering built in Execution Hill the scene of several hangings in the 1800′s and Fort Pickering Light erected in 1871.  Looking for someplace to camp in Salem, Winter Island Park offers RV and tent camping from late April till Halloween.
10. People Watch – Dean Martin used to like to stand on the corner but in Salem sitting on the corner of Washington and Essex is one of the best ways to spend your good weather time.  Many of the restaurants offer great out door seating.  This activity shouldn’t be limited to just the center of town, watching the people and boats over at the wharf or taking in a band at Spirits or the Shanty are some of the best things to do in Salem when the weather rules.

Do you have a favorite good weather activity we didn’t list here?  If so, tell us about it.

The Salem CultureFest runs on Saturday July 26th from 10a.m. to 8p.m. and Sunday July 27th 10a.m. to 6p.m. Salem CulturFest schedule offers a cross cultural blend of world-fusion dance music including and diverse performers coming from many world traditions Unique Arts, crafts, colorful clothes and ethnic food will be available for purchase. Parents and children can enjoy a wide range of entertainment & hands on participatory art activities. There will be a Moon Walk/Bouncy Thing, clowns, games and more.

The not for profit organization A3D has a vision to open a multicultural center in Salem, Massachusetts with the Salem CultureFest being a platform to invite citizens of Salem and the greater North Shore area to experience the festivities for themselves and to get interested and involved in the idea of a multicultural Center.

In addition to using the monies raised at the festival to fund A3D goals, 10% of the proceeds from the Salem CultureFest will be donated to the Salem School Foundation to assist raising much needed funds for Salem’s public schools. Any additional funds raised at the Salem CulturFest will help A3D’s humanitarian efforts in Senegal, West Africa. Through the Salem CultureFest, A3D’s wish is to bring true meaning to the phrase: “act locally and think globally.

” For more information on how to volunteer for the Salem CultureFest go to: www. a3dinc. org and friend them on myspace at  myspace.com/salemculturefest.

Recently I was asked to come and cover the ribbon cutting ceremony with the Mayor, Chamber of Commerce and some business owners over at one of Salem’s newest and most unique shops in the down town area, Witch City Ink.

Jennifer Bell(l) Witch City Ink Staff with Mayor Kimberly Driscol and Renus Oosthoek(r)

Your first reaction might be – Why? Why is there a tattoo shop in down town and why would there be a ribbon cutting ceremony there? Why does this shop interest the mayor and the chamber of commerce and why does this new retail space draw other business owners?

First of all take every old stereotype of a seedy tattoo parlor filled with bikers and sailors and toss it out the window.  If you keep up with current trends on TV (TLC or Discovery Channel) you know that there is a new era of tattoo, piercings and body modification being ushered in by young artists turned business people with a focus on quality, respectable work.  Witch City Ink is one of this new breed of tattoo studios raising the bar for their field.

Situated in the Pedestrian Mall on Essex Street (with an additional entrance from the Museum Place Mall) across from Pamplemousse, , this new business features Italian marble floors, Tibetan red walls, and a selection of antiques collected by shop proprietor Natan on his various world trips.  It is obvious that much care was spent transforming this old retail space to a new high end shop in the same vein as Salem Wine Imports or Sacred Gear.  The front retail/waiting area leads to a hallway where various artists have rooms for tattooing and piercing.  The back area of the shop (where one enters from the mall) is another waiting area with racks of “flash” or pre-drawn art.  These 6 foot tall 3 foot wide displays contain thousands of examples of traditional imagery which a customer could ask for or use as inspiration for a custom piece of art.

Why is this a big deal?

Unlike many of the businesses in the Museum Place Mall and allong the Pedestrian mall the hours of Witch City Ink promise not to be 9-5.  This draws the interest of the Salem Chamber and other local business owners as there is a push to bring life to this area at night.  The Salem Chamber “after hours” events (similar to “alive after 5″ campaigns) highlighting the fact that many businesses close up shop at 5pm.  On some of the web forums that residents participate in a large concern is that shops that some locals would like to patronize are closed up by the time people get out of work.  With Witch City Ink staying open later into the evening and a Rita’s Italian Ice opening up next door (many franchises have 10pm closing hours) this could be the catylist Salem needs to bring about friendlier hours in some of our down town shops.

In addition to the obvious economic implications the arrival of Witch City Ink could have to the area,  its location is key in opening the eyes of those who still have negative connotations about this type of business. Derby Streets’ Purple Scorpian has been doing tattoos and body piercings for some time now and the recently opened Sacred Harp Tattoo on Boston Street prove that Salem is forward thinking in its acceptance of this art form.  However neither shop is as visible to the passer-by as this Essex Street locale.

Whether you love or loathe tattoos and the people who wear them one thing is for sure, new and diverse businesses in the down town Salem area is a positive step for all local businesses. Many residents sit on the side line complaining that there are too many of one type or the other stores yet they do nothing about it.  It’s refreshing to see young entrepreneurs with a new perspective opening up (or taking the reins of) shops like Hex, Fools Mansion and now this upscale tattoo shop Witch City Ink.

Are you kidding me? It’s the beginning of summer.

Music

Friday May 23rd

• Alanna Manning (jazz 6:30-9:30pm) Speakeasys (rock, punk 10pm) @ Bangkok Paradise
• Neurological Damage (alternative, metal, funk) @ Dodge Street
• Los Sugar Kings (mambo-salsa dance party 9:30pm) @ Edgewater Cafe
• Machine 475 (electronica, pop, rock 8pm) @ Gulu Gulu
• Grateful Ted (classic rock 8pm) @ The Lobster Shanty
• Tony Gallo (jazz, r&b, pop 9pm) @ Lyceum
• Traditional Irish Music (6-9pm) DJ Lost Daze (dance, pop, hip-hop 10pm) @ O’Neill’s
• Search Party (dance, rock, pop, 80′s) @ Rockafellas
• Matt Tentindo (singer / guitar) @ Spirit’s at 300 Derby
• Close to Home @ (8-11:30pm) Strombergs (new listing)

Saturday May 24th

• Sandi Bedrosian (jazz 6:30-9:30pm) Terri Lee ( world 10pm) @ Bangkok Paradise
• Fair Warning (Van Halen Tribute) @ Dodge Street
• DJ Zati (10pm) @ Fresh Taste of Asia
• HAPPY SPRINGALLOWEEN!!(blues 8pm) @ Gulu Gulu
• TBA @ The Lobster Shanty
• Santarella – Kimball Duo (folk rock) @ The Lyceum
• Traditional Irish Music (6-9pm) DJ Cee Block (dance, pop, hip-hop 10pm) @ O’Neill’s
• Wildfire (dance, rock, pop, R&B) @ Rockafellas
• TBA @ Spirit’s at 300 Derby
• Wishful Thinking @ (8-11:30pm) Strombergs (new listing)

Sunday May 25th

• Jazz Jam! (jazz 6:30-9:30pm) @ Bangkok Paradise
• Big Shoes 2 Phil (Jazz) @ Dodge Street
• Gulu Sunday Morning Brunch featuring Eric Doucette (acoustic guitar 11am-2pm) @ Gulu Gulu
• TBA @ The Lobster Shanty
• Traditional Irish Music (4-7pm) @ O’Neill’s
• Lisa Love Experience (dance, rock, pop, 80′s) @ Rockafellas
• High Tide Party @ (2-6pm) Strombergs (new listing)

Movies

Cinema Salem will be showing:

Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull (PG-13)
Friday & Saturday at 11:10AM, 1:45, 4:25, 7:15 and 9:50
Sunday & Monday Memorial Day at 11:10AM, 1:45, 4:25 and 7:15

Ironman (PG-13)
Friday & Saturday at 11:10 AM, 1:45, 4:35, 7:20 and 10:00
Sunday at 11:10 AM, 1:45, 4:35 and 7:20

Prince Caspian (PG)
Friday, Saturday & Sunday 11:00AM, 2:00, 5:00, 8:00

Insider Picks

The cute weather girl on TV tells me its going to be a stellar weekend so lets plan on some out door fun.

Insiders know that when the weather gets good we all gather at the Shanty. You can meet all sorts of Salemites there and everybody is usually friendly. Kick off the long weekend with a true Salem fixture Grateful Ted. Cheap food, warm beer, lousy waitresses and classic rock older than you are. Saturday the HAPPY SPRINGALLOWEEN!! event is going on at Gulu-Gulu Dan Blakeslee as Dr. GASP, Orange Nichole, and our personal friend Monster Reusch (why he doesn’t live in Salem I don’t know) will all be preforming in a kooky ode to Halloween party. Newcomer to our musical offerings is Strombergs, this Sunday they will be having a High Tide Party and if it’s as good as their previous events you are in store for some fun, grab your fiends and head on over. Monday looks to be the best day yet weather wise so where better to spend your time than on the water. Since you probably wont be going to Bakers Island – do the next best thing and take a ride out to the newly opened (noon today) Rockmore. And for you slackers who want to take it easy, Salem Cinema has the new Indiana Jones flick (we saw it last night) its well worth your $6.

The streets are littered with trucks, vans and RV’s for the filming of “Bride Wars,” a movie starring Kate Hudson. East India Marine Hall is the actual location they are using to film but most parking spots in down town are filled with supporting crews, electrification personnel, best boys, key dolly gaffer grips et al.  Old Town Hall is being used as a staging area, and the hustle and bustle was going by 6am.

(c) James Devaney

If you are around town and snap any fun pictures of the filming send them along and we’ll post them up.

Lately there have been some great jazz vocalists and bands playing in Salem so they have garnered a few write ups and some insider picks on the Weekend Warrior (what to do this weekend) posts. Salem’s musical offerings are of a much broader spectrum than only jazz. On any given week you can find hip-hop, experimental, dance/pop, R&B, rock, folk, blue grass, punk and soon to be goth shows around town.

Taking the musical ball and running with it, the Witchstock Music Festival is now entering it’s fifth year as one of the premier summer music events around.

From their myspace page:

WITCHSTOCK is a FREE, all ages, outdoor music festival founded in 2004 by myself (Madison) and Scott (The 80′s Man) which takes place every July at the Salem Willows shell stage overlooking the harbor…Salem, Massachusetts…designed to spotlight local, musical talent and enjoy a beautiful venue!

This summer 2008: 5th Annual Witchstock Date: Saturday July 5th (4TH OF JULY WEEKEND!!) (Raindate on the 12th) Hours: 2PM – 10PM (We Extended the hours this summer into the night so we can do a light show!) We are showcasing 8 bands from Boston, New Hampshire, New Jersey, and North Shore Area favorites!! Also…It’s an all ages show!! So there will be some free, fun stuff for the kiddies in the earlier part of Witchstock(2pm -4pm), face painting, temporary tattoos!….and some free stuff for the adults in the later hours as well.

If you are interested in being part of the action Madison is looking for some volunteers. You can contact her via the Witchstock myspace profile. If you just want to come and enjoy the music I suggest you come early, bring your chair-in-a-bag or blanket and get a nice spot where you will be comfortable for the long haul. Also this year, the fun doesn’t stop at 10PM. Dodge Street Bar and Grille will continue the extravaganza till 1am. And if I know anything about Salem in the summer – there will be a kickin’ after party till the sun comes up on Sunday morning.

Stay tuned for more info on this great event as it comes in.

(c) Speakerscorner

1. Take a trolley ride - It might be a rainy spring or fall day, but the trolleys are still up and running. You can kick back in the enclosed vehicle and still get a great tour and history lesson.
2. Check out the Salem Visitors Center – with free literature, mini-movies, exhibits and a staff of knowledgeable people to help you on your Salem quest. The Visitors Center at 2 New Liberty Street should be one of your first stops regardless of the weather.
3. House of Seven Gables – This historical favorite is open practically year ’round and while you might not want to hit the gardens if the weather is bad, the house tour is well worth the price of admission.
4. Peabody Essex Museum - One of the finest museums in Massachusetts is centrally located right in down town Salem. They usually have temporary exhibits that cover a broad spectrum of interest and their permanent collections are equally intriguing.
5. Salem Maritime National Historic Sites – The National Park Service runs many of the historic sites at the wharf. While some of the sites are outside, 8 are inside-including one of Salem’s hidden treasures the West India Goods Store where all the Salem Insiders come to get great prices on spices. The above link will also take you to a series of free audio tours you can download and put on your ipod.
6. Visit the Witch Museum – Many visitors come to Salem for the witch attractions. The Witch Museum is probably the best place in town to get the full picture of what happened leading up to, during and beyond the fables Salem Witch Trials.
7. Visit the New England Pirate Museum- If witches don’t float your boat or you just prefer sea-men, come here to get the real story of pirates and privateers who swash-buckled their way off the shores of New England in the golden age of sail.
8. Take in a movie at Cinema Salem – You can easily miss their small marquee on the back side of the Museum Place Mall but this movie house is one of the best deals going in Salem. Three screens with recent movies and great prices.
9. Get lost in a read at Cornerstone Books – With plenty of literary events scheduled, it seems that there is always something happening at Cornerstone. You can always escape the bad weather blues in a big comfy chair with a book in hand and maybe run into and author or two.
10. While away the hours in a coffee shop – Salem has a few outstanding coffee shops most with free wi-fi. Bust out your computer and blog about your rainy day or read up on the latest post from TheSalemInsider.com. If you look around you’ll probably see me typing away drinking a half double decaffeinated half-caf, with a twist of lemon writing tomorrows post.

Bonus

• Witch History Museum – If you decided to check out the Witch Museum or the Pirate Museum you can get a combo pass also visit this museum. As a bonus the trolleys stop in front of each location so you can stay out of the weather.
• Shop – Whether you’ve already done the majority of things on this list or they just don’t speak to you,  you can always patronize many of Salem’s fine shops. When all else fails, go shopping!

Why is Salem a hot spot for nightlife?

Last year and beyond if you were looking for live music your choices were somewhat limited. Dodge Street offered up Rock music in a dive bar atmosphere, Rockafellas offered dance music in a bit more upscale atmosphere, Bangkok Paradise offered Jazz in a weird atmosphere (for jazz) and occasionally Edgewater, O’Neills and The Old Spot (formerly McSwiggins) would have live music. Sitting just outside the down town area, Bay Bridge was a staple of the Salem nightclub scene with local and national bands, karaoke and DJ’s playing almost every night. Let’s not forget the Lobster Shanty in the nice weather months.

© Danielle Blue

Competition raises the bar.

As a reader of TheSalemInsider.com you probably know that due to a combination of sprinkler system legislation and non-payment of taxes the Bay Bridge is closed. There has been no movement on this property so it looks like it’s gone for a long while. On the flip side, new establishments in Salem have made others stand up and take notice.

Gulu-Gulu Cafe brought with it a huge beer menu, interesting live music and a packed house of well-tattooed hipsters. A cascading effect of late night changes shortly ensued. Bangkok Paradise shifted their Friday and Saturday jazz to a 6-9 time slot allowing them to promote “rock” bands (rock, hip-hop, roots, metal and cover bands) in the 10-12 time slot. New comer Fresh Taste of Asia, saw an opening and decided to spin the wax with an ambient hip-hop groove catering to a young urban Asian set.

Established locales aren’t impervious to the phenomenon either. The Lyceum has started a live music series on weekend nights, their acts are targeted to their existing clientèle featuring more mellow music and the occasional 70′s rocker. The Old Spot stepped up their bookings also, with live music 3 to 5 nights a week (unfortunately they still are having a hard time getting the word out - get a website people). O’Neills does the DJ thing and packs in a good college-type crowd.

In the “everything thats old is new again” department, Spirits of 300 Derby (formerly Roosevelt’s of Salem) opened recently and has an entertainment license that allows for up to 5 musicians. We’ve seen some great guitar player/singers and Salem favorite, Preacher Jack. Look for changes to happen over at Spirits soon as they work out their menu and eventually open up the second floor. Dodge Street marches to their own drum beat and has been doing live music well before it got trendy.

It seems like musicians from all around are hip to the new explosion of Salem night life. Musicians contact us through our myspace page asking about gigs or adding us to their guest list just so we can have a listen. Killer Boston bands like The Indefinite Article, Ichabod and the Love Dogs play gigs in Salem all the time. Plenty of local musicians ply their craft here in town also. With all the great venues and opportunities out there I wouldn’t be surprised to see Salem songstress Mary Lou Lord playing out somewhere soon.

If you build it they will come.

Now that restaurants and bars are offering entertainment, where is everyone coming from? Many people are throwing around the phrase “Salem is the new Cambridge” and that just might be true. I personally know a bunch of people that used to live in Cambridge, Boston and Somerville that have recently moved to Salem. Salem offers a city feel, walkability, MBTA access, and rent at half the price of places in Boston and parking is slightly better.

While census stats for this exact information is unavailable it’s a safe bet to say that more young professionals, 20 and 30-somethings have been moving into Salem. You see them walking to the commuter rail in the morning or having a cup of coffee at any one of our coffee shops on the weekend.

An informal poll taken in January by TheSalemInsider.com showed many people are taking advantage of Salem’s night life live North of Boston (from Revere to Gloucester). When asked “why Salem” the answers were varied but revolved around bang for your buck, quality entertainment, safety and less hassle.

What’s next for Salem’s scene?

Any insider can tell you that there is a yearly cycle that Salem goes through. Like many of it’s North Shore neighbors Salem sees a direct influx of people based on the weather. Spring finds more locals that have been hibernating in doors all winter out walking about and making their way to many of our local hang outs. Once June hits and schools close, tourists arrive taking full advantage of our waterfront, the Willows and off shore locations like the Salem Harbor Islands (i.e. Baker’s Island). As the summer draws to a close and fall hits the second wave of tourists hits in full force for the Halloween season.

With spring right around the corner what will the face of Salem nightlife look like? If last year is any indication, outdoor seating will be all the rage. Like Newbury Street in Boston, anyone with a few feet of real estate in front of their place will plop down a table and start serving out side. Last year The Lobster Shanty, Salem Beerworks and Victoria Station had by far the largest patio seating with Rockafellas showing nicely for down town. This year the tide has changed, be on the lookout for Spirits to dominate summer outdoor space. If they book quality live music and are allowed to play outside, they could give the Shanty a run for their money.

Summer finds tourists and locals alike beating a path to Pickering Wharf. Finz and Victoria Station have nice on the water seating but Capt’s open air second floor offers perhaps the best view on the wharf. If you want a more nautical dinner experience than just eating by the water, you can dine on the water at Salem’s floating restaurant the Rockmore which is scheduled to open on May 23rd. The Rock is a perennial party pad pushing a plethora of pleasant pabulum and plenty of potable potions.

Is Salem’s art and music boom sustainable?

Twenty years ago when the Cambridge music and arts scene started to take off people said that venues like TT the Bear’s and the Middle East would never survive across the river from Boston landmarks like the Rathskeller, Narcissus, The Boston T Party and M-80. If you look at the Boston/Cambridge seen today you’ll find that two of the Boston clubs mentioned are now BU condos the other two are now Lyons Group clubs, changed names, had about 50 face lifts and just last month one (now Avalon) was sold to the House of Blues. In Cambridge, TT’s and the Middle East are still packing people in every night of the week.

I don’t think we will see the migration to Salem slow down for quite a while. New condo housing is being built and affordable rentals abound. More 20 and 30-somethings with disposable income, no kids or very young families are still flocking to Salem. With their arrival you find business that cater to them popping up. Prime examples are hip baby shops like Crunchy Granola Baby, hang outs like Front Street Coffee House and Gulu-Gulu Cafe and new businesses like the recently opened Hex and the soon to open Witch City Ink. When independent businesses open up focusing on a college/post college/young professional demographic it makes the city more appealing to that demographic.

With available retail space, new space coming shortly (Old Salem News building, and Courthouse area redevelopment) there is no question the night life scene in Salem can grow. One fear many people have is corporate establishments encroaching on down town. Salem’s unique charm is in part due to it’s independent businesses. When local pizza chain The Upper Crust moved into Salem last year there was plenty of talk regarding their “corporate” status. Will future restaurant/bar/nightclub owners in Salem keep an independent spirit alive? That remains to be seen.

What is missing from Salem’s scene?

One aspect lacking in Salem is a true “night club”, one with great sound and lights that focuses on entertainment every night. While this type of place can’t realistically exist in down town Salem, there are plenty of locations that would work.

Where is the Salem Art scene? In the summer, Klopp Alley is full of artists, sculptures, jewelry makers and musicians. Through out the year The Salem Art Association throws a few events promoting art and their artists in particular. The Art Corner, Front Street Coffeehouse and Gulu-Gulu Cafe always have something on exhibit but is this enough for our city? Often during Halloween season the old Newmark Gallery on Essex Street is taken over by locals and puts on quite a show. This year that wont happen as it will house the Lizzie Borden Museum (why? I didn’t know she was from Salem). There are plenty of local artists and the only galleries to be found in Salem are devoted to miniature ships and maritime paintings. With all the talent in our own backyard it’s too bad there is no daily way to showcase it.

Salem could also benefit from a “local only” night. In some smaller cities you will find venues that promote from within, by featuring only local musicians and artists on a particular night (every Thursday for instance). Given the number of bands and artists that call Salem home this could be a successful concept for a mid-week night.

Last Call

As more people come to Salem for their night out the venues need to keep up their great offerings while simultaneously ensuring client safety. By keeping patrons safe from harm (usually due to fisticuffs and/or over imbibing) the city licensing boards and police will allow a greater expansion of this city’s night life. When people come to Salem and have fun, everybody wins.

Right now is a great time to live in Salem, Massachusetts. Night time fun is in style and choices are abundant. If you want to have a quiet bottle of wine with friends, see live rock music, dance to a hip-hop DJ, or sit in on a jazz set – Salem has it all. And it’s only getting better. With the proliferation of patrons, establishments are seeing a bump in their bottom line which means they are more willing to offer you what you’re looking for, a good time on a night out.

People visit Salem year round. Obviously October is the busiest month of the year but tourists flock to this historic city from April till November, giving the residents a brief respite during the winter.

If you are thinking of coming to Salem there are a few options on how to get here. You can take the MBTA Commuter Rail and get off at the Salem Depot which is a 3 minute walk to down town. From May to November you can take the Salem Ferry which goes from Central Wharf (New England Aquarium) in Boston to the Blaney Street Dock in Salem. But for most people driving is the way to get here.

Now that it is April 1 (no joke) street cleaning is in effect and parking enforcement is stronger. Last year Salem brought in $1.7 Million in parking fees. This post is your guide to the dos and don’t of parking in the Witch City.

Where can I park in Salem?

Parking lots and garages are you best bet if you are unfamiliar with the area.

• Museum Place Mall garage
• South Harbor garage ( on Derby Street)
• MBTA Commuter Rail parking lot
• Blaney Street lot
• Church Street lot
• Crombie Street lot
• Sewell Street lot by the YMCA
• Front Streetl lot behind the Fire Station
• Riley Plaza lot in front of the Post Office

What about resident parking?

Like other cities Salem has plenty of streets in its historic neighborhoods that offer resident parking. All residents who live in an area that offers resident only parking can go to the Parking Office at 1 New Liberty Street across from the Visitor Center and get a resident parking sticker.

In October, any resident can get a month long resident pass allowing them to park on streets that have temporary resident only parking due to the Halloween season.

Tell me about “on street” parking

If you are coming up for the day or perhaps a short stay at one of our B&B’s you might be interested in on-street parking. In the down town and surrounding areas many streets have metered spots. Parking meters run from 8am to 5 or 6pm after that you can park in the spot for free. Unlike the exorbitantly prices you would pay in Boston (5 minutes per quarter) one quarter will buy you an hour in Salem with most meters having a max time of two hours. Meters take nickels, dimes and quarters so remember to bring change.

Parking Enforcement

Salem meter maids hit the pavement with a vengeance every morning. Don’t expect to be given any slack… ever. Do yourself a favor and remember where and when you parked so you can avoid these Salem witches.

If you do find yourself with an orange greeting card on your windshield you can take care of it any time of day or night. Simple meter expired parking violations only cost $10 which is less than parking a full day in the garages during Halloween season. For your convenience there is a 24 hour drop box in front of City hall where you can pay your ticket.

See Salem from a Trolley Tour

There are two tour company’s that operate in Salem, City View Trolley Tours and Salem Trolley. I noticed both companies were out this past weekend. City View has taken up residence in an empty retail space on Essex Street and is looking for employees if you need a cool April through October job. Both Companies start their regular schedule next week, in the beginning of April.

(c) jdong

Salem Trolley
8 Central St.
978.744.5469

Salem’s original narrated Trolley Tour, the red Salem trolleys that you see around town have been here since 1982. For a flat fee you can board this trolley and take a one hour 8 mile ride around town. One reason tourists love the trolley is because with your ticket you can get on and off the trolley all day long. It is so convenient for someone who isn’t familiar with all the side streets of Salem and still wants to maximize their sight seeing time.

Salem Trolley’s fleet consists of two handicapped accessible trolleys and two traditional ones. Their service runs from 10am to 5pm and a map of stops and times is available here on their website. You can also charter a trolley if you are having an event in Salem.

Ticket prices (available at select locations in town)
Adults $12
Seniors $10
Kids $3
Toddlers free when accompanied by an adult so don’t let your 1 year old ride the trolley by himself.
They also have a variety of combo packages.

(c) City View Trolley Tours

City View Trolley Tours
PO Box 729
Salem MA 01970
978.594.0969

City View is the new kid in town and is easily recognized by their silver trolleys. Their business has been running in Boston for over 25 years, but they just came to Salem a few seasons ago. With nine stops, including one at the Salem Ferry, the City View tour is a one hour narrated historical ride. Like it’s competition, you can get on and off all day at whichever stop you wish. Unlike it’s competition, City View offers service to the ferry and MBTA Commuter Rail station. A full map of stops is available here on their website.

Ticket prices (available onboard or online)
Adults $12
Students & Seniors $10
Kids $5

Seeing Salem MA from a different perspective

Regardless of which Trolley company you decide to try, they are an excellent way to learn more about Salem. I always suggest to new visitors and locals alike to give it a ride at least once a year. Each driver has a different perspective and is knowledgeable about different aspects of Salem’s history. One driver might know more about the maritime history where another might have a better understanding about the early settlers and witch-related items. Either way you slice it, seeing things from a new angle is always a treat.

Special Events / Festivals

Salem Film Fest 2008
Earlier this week we did a full write up on the Salem Film Fest which kicked off Thursday night. It’s going on all week and there are plenty of great movies to see and fun events at local establishment. We are big proponents of broadening our cultural horizons, this is a perfect opportunity to do just that.

Music

Friday February 29th

• Richie Rich and the 24 Karat Funk Band @ Rockafellas
• The Illegals w/ Dave Fisher (rock) @ Dodge Street
• Steve Marvin (jazz 6:30-9:30) Eternity (rock 10) @ Bangkok Paradise
• Machine 457 (Electronica / pop / rock 8pm) @ Gulu Gulu

Saturday March 1st

• Pete Demon & Cocaine Tongue (rock) @ Dodge Street
• Shadowbox Blues Band (blues 8pm) @ Gulu Gulu

Movies

Cinema Salem will be showing:

Salem Film Fest Schedule

Vantage Point (PG-13)
Fri & Sat: (11:20 AM), (1:30), (4:00), 7:30, 9:50
Sun: (11:20 AM), (1:30), (4:00), 6:00

Spiderwick (PG)
Friday and Saturday at (12:15), (2:30), (4:45), 7:15 and 9:30;
Sunday – Thursday at (12:15), (2:30), (4:45) and 7:15.

Art

Body Politics — Visions in blood and ink: the return of Maori tattoo @ PEM
This exhibit in its first week is a joy for photography fans and those interested in an insight to other cultures. Remember Salem residents get in for FREE.

Insider Picks

This weekend the insider picks are easy to make. With the Salem Film Fest coming around only once a year its time to head to the movies. Stand out movies this weekend look like B.I.K.E, Everything Will be OK, and Red Without Blue. There are plenty of other great movies coming up during the week. If movies aren’t your bag, dance your booty off with Richie Rich Friday night.

As always have a blast, don’t drink & drive and tell us about your weekend.

No this isn’t an article about the Purple Scorpion or the soon to open Witch City Ink, it’s about some beautiful photographs, the Peabody Essex Museum and moko.

(c) Hans Neleman

Body Politics — Visions in blood and ink: the return of Maori tattoo

Open now and running through February 2009, the PEM is showing a photographic exhibit by Hans Neleman which delves into the Maori recapturing and embracing their cultural identity which was stolen from them under British rule. Neleman gained the trust of the indigenous Maori people of New Zealand photographing the resurgence of moko and witnessing the revival of the Maori language.

What is moko?

Traditionally the Tā moko is the permanent body and face marking by Māori. It is distinct from what we think of as tattoo’s in that the skin was carved by uhi (chisels) rather than punctured with a needle. Using an uhi (which looks like a back scratcher made from albatross bone) leaves the skin with grooves, rather than the smooth surface people with modern tattoos have.

Moko is a rite of passage, a road map to the wearers life. Each part of the moko is distinct and tells of the persons tribe, family and status in society. As such, each is unique and can be read by others, it is an outward profile of who you are. Moko can be worn by both men and women however, women tend to have only their lips and chin done while men do the entire face.

About the photographs.

As a photographer and having read Neleman’s book Moko–Maori Tattoo I can tell you that his use of large format photography to capture minute detail works wonderfully with his natural ability to connect with a subject. Many of his images are captured in a studio, not the natural environment for the average person. Yet he is able to put them at ease and allows their personality to show through. It is as though you can see through time and look beyond preconceived anachronistic notions.

On the heals of the Oscars (yes there were Oscars this year) where American actors were shut out this year, Cinema Salem is proud to host the Salem Film Fest February 28th – March 6th.

This year, join a celebration of international film and music in Salem, Massachusetts, America’s first international city.

Enjoy outstanding features, documentaries, and short films from around the world, participate in face-to-face discussions with filmmakers, and party with world-class musicians in one of America’s most beautiful and historic cities.

This seven-day event will showcase brilliant, emerging, and controversial film from Spain, The Netherlands, Thailand, Tuva, Nigeria, Russia, China, and the US.

The films will be shown at Cinema Salem, times are posted on salemfilmfest.com (warning: it is an old frames style website and wont work properly in some browsers) . Events such as lectures, discussions with film makers, insight to the industry and parties supporting the films will be held around town. The Salem Waterfront Hotel stepped up to the plate and is the major sponsor with many other local businesses kicking in and doing their part to encourage and support this endeavor.

With 28 different films being shown you might want to see more than one. Cinema Salem has constructed multiple single and multi-day passes which allow you to save some money when seeing more than one film. Now go get your culture on.

With this being the 250th anniversary of the birth of Salem’s renowned architect and woodcutter, Samuel McIntire, a multitude of events (including the summer walking tours and Christmas house tour) have been offered in celebration with Carving an American Style at the Peabody Essex Museum being the focal point. This exhibit ends next Sunday February 24th. If you are a student of Salem history, fine wood artistry or architecture you owe it to yourself to get over to the PEM and see this collection now in its final week. The entire third floor is devoted to the genius of McIntire’s work.

From fine furniture details; carved desks, game tables, bedposts, mirrors and chairs to mammoth structures like the Old North Church, the Washington Arch (formerly at the West gate of the Salem Common) and a plethora of buildings, a great number of original McIntire pieces are on display. Not only are these pieces beautiful, but a portion of the exhibit is devoted to showing you how McIntire build them using traditional tools and methods. Seeing a master woodcarver ply his trade and viewing the example pieces on hand gives you a unique insight and appreciation on how this master must have worked.

An integral feature of the exhibit is exploring the relationship that McIntire had with the Henry Derby family. Derby was this nation’s first millionaire, making his money through trade with the Far East. Derby commissioned a variety of works, and was the first to commission a home designed by McIntire, who had it furnished with pieces he hand-picked, adorned with carvings.

If you are lucky enough to have some time off this week (it is school vacation week after all), spend some time enjoying this exhibit so you can spend more time enjoying Salem and what she has to offer.

Final lecture of the McIntire Lecture Series

In addition to seeing the exhibit, this Wednesday night is your last chance to attend one of the lectures which have been so informative. According to the PEM:

Elisabeth Garrett Widmer presents a talk on life at home in Federal America, which was demonstrably altered by a wide range of new aesthetic, economic and social forces and will examine these influences and their multifaceted manifestations in the architecture, décor and lifestyles of fashionable citizens of the federal period in America. She will open doors and peer through windows and invite the audience to join her on a tour through the drawing room and parlor, dining room and bedchamber, closet and bath. Along the way she will make observations on decoration and décor, comfort and convenience, furniture forms and feminine persuasion, consumerism and purchasing power, family life and room usage, entertainment and politeness and all the telling minutiae of domestic details.

Elisabeth Garrett Widmer is an independent author and educator. She has previously held leadership positions at Sotheby’s, Strawbery Banke Museum, Christie’s and Antiques America. She is the author of several books including At Home; the American Family, 1750-1870, which received the Charles F. Montgomery Prize of the Decorative Arts Society for the most distinguished contribution to the study of American decorative arts published in the English language by a North American scholar. She is currently working on a book on childhood in America.

The lecture is free but tickets are limited it’s suggested you swing by the museum and pick yours up early.

This sculpture in front of the PEM was by far the best

due to the weather many sculputures like this one in front of New Civilitea met an untimely demise

We photographed all the sculptures and will get them up on our flickr page shortly.

Whats going on in Salem the weekend of February 8, 9 and 10

Festivals / Special Events:

• 6th Annual Salem’s So Sweet Chocolate & Ice Sculpture Festival all weekend
• Red Cross Blood drive @ the old Town Hall 10am – 3pm Saturday

Music

Friday February 8th

• The Love Dogs @ Rockafellas
• Meatstick @ Dodge Street
• Alana Manning (jazz 6:30-9:30) Speakeasy (rock 10) @ Bangkok Paradise
• DJ Seth @ Gulu Gulu

Saturday February 9th

• Spiral Circus @ Rockafellas
• ol Brown Shoe (jam) @ Dodge Street
• Jon Kelly and Tom Petrekas (jazz 6:30-9:30) Scratch my Back (rock 10) @ Bangkok Paradise
• Chaz & The Motorbikes (8pm) @ Gulu Gulu
• renowned jazz vocalist Dane Vannatter and his quartet (Benefit Concert for Salem Public Schools 8pm) @ Peabody Essex Museum Atrium

Movies

Cinema Salem will be showing:

Fool’s Gold (PG-13)
Fri & Sat: (11:20 AM), (2:00), (4:30), 7:00, 9:30
Sun: (11:20 AM), (2:00), (4:30), 7:00

There Will Be Blood (R)
Fri – Sun: 12:30, 3:45, 7:30

Juno (PG-13)
Fri & Sat: (11:30 AM), (1:45), (4:00), 7:15, 9:40
Sun: (11:30 AM), (1:45), (4:00), 7:15

The Rocky Horror Picture Show (R)
Fri: 11:30 PM

Art

Samuel McIntire, Carving an American Style @ PEM
This exhibit is a must-see for Salem residents (who get in for FREE) and comes to an end on February 24th.

Insider Picks

If you want to start your Friday night off early, swing by Hamilton Hall for a Chocolate & Wine Tasting at 6:30pm. Once you’ve had your fill put your night into high gear. Tonight if you like martinis, swing / blues music, dancing and partying your ass off, head over to Rockafellas and tell the Love Dogs that “Big Daddy” sent you. If beer and Metal is more your style, Meatstick is rocking Dodge Street to it’s foundation.

Saturday (if you didn’t drink too much Friday night) help your neighbor and stock up on some karma points by giving blood at the old Town Hall during the day. Head to the PEM at night to hear Dane Vannatter perform some great jazz for a good cause, our Salem schools.

Don’t forget, all the ice sculptures around town are free to see and you could win some Salem booty if you pick up a Golden Ticket.

I’ve seen the sculptures for a few years now, it’s a total crap shoot due to weather. Hopefully it will be cold and dry so the ice can survive a few days.

As for the chocolate, if you have a sweet tooth you will be in heaven.

According to the Chamber of Commerce press release:

The Salem Chamber of Commerce, Salem Main Streets and local retailers, restaurants and businesses will host the 6th annual Salem’s So Sweet, Chocolate & Ice Sculpture Festival, February 8- 14th. The festival’s focus will continue to be on decadent chocolate, sparkling ice sculptures and Valentine’s Day retail. The festival is free for all to attend

The whimsical ice sculptures can be found at 15 locations throughout downtown Salem, and Pickering Wharf on Saturday, February 9th & Sunday, February 10th. Local merchants, restaurants and attractions sponsor ice Sculptures. Designs for this years’ ice sculptures include Sophia Peabody Hawthorne, a bride, a witch, a child reading a book, a teapot, and the Salem Waterfront Hotel.

In addition to the free temporary art in the down town area you can pick up a “golden ticket” and be eligible to win a gift basket containing swag from many of the participating shops.

Calendar of Events

Friday, February 8, 6.30 p.m.
Chocolate & Wine Tasting at Hamilton Hall

Saturday, February 9 – All Day
Salem’s So Sweet Chocolate & Ice Sculpture Festival – Chocolate samples, events and promotions at participating businesses.
10 a.m. – 3 p.m. Red Cross “Give From the Heart” Blood Drive in Old Town Hall Free chair massages for blood donors by Body and Soul Massage and Wellness Center.

Sunday, February 10 – All Day – Salem’s So Sweet Chocolate & Ice Sculpture Festival – Chocolate samples, events and promotions at participating businesses

Thursday, February 14 – Valentine’s Day

Chocolate & Wine Tasting
Friday, February 8: 6.30-8.30 p.m.
Hamilton Hall, 9 Chestnut St., Salem. $20.00 Admission
Tickets for Sale at Salem Chamber of Commerce, 265 Essex Street, at the door or by calling 978.744.0004.

A Special Note

A few years ago one of theSalemInsider.com’s frequent contributors was involved in a bad motorcycle accident and required over 40 units of blood. If it wasn’t for the great care he received and the available blood, he would not be with us today. Many people need blood. This Saturday a wonderful way for you to help your neighbor is to give blood at the old Town Hall. It’s quick, relatively painless and a simple way for you to do something helpful for others. Who knows, someday you might be the person in need.

What the heck is Baker’s Island?

Most people are familiar with Salem’s 8.1 square miles of land but know nothing about our 10 miles of water or what exists out there. Salem maritime properties include Children’s Island, Ram Island, Cunney Island, Tinkers Island, Great Misery Island, Little Misery Island and Baker’s Island. While some of them have summer homes none are inhabited year round.

The 60 acre Baker’s Island lies 3.5 miles off shore. In addition to its one light house (visible from the Salem Willows) the island is home to 55 cottages most built in the late 1800′s to early 1900′s. The island also has a store, fire house, meeting hall (Sherman C. Burnham Hall), and gift shop known as Driftwood. Baker’s Island it’s Massachusetts’ largest residential island north of Boston.

History of Baker’s Island

During the golden age of sail, Salem was the wealthiest city in the States all because of her port but there were no major aids to navigation to help mariners past the islands and rocks outside her harbor. A conical day beacon erected in 1791 was 57 feet tall, painted red, and topped by a two-foot diameter black ball. Unfortunately this beacon was not much help at night or in the fog and after three wrecks in 1796 killing 16 men the Salem Marine Society sent a message to Congress stating they needed to replace the beacon with a lighthouse.

That much of the property and many of the lives of their fellow citizens are almost every year lost in coming into the harbour of Salem for want of proper lights to direct their course… This calamity can, in the opinion of this society be prevented only by erecting a lighthouse on the northern end of Bakers Island . . .

Congress authorized $6,000 for the establishment of twin lights on Baker’s Island which first lit up on January 3, 1798. The two towers were located on top of a two-story keeper’s house, about 40 feet apart at either end of the building with four lamps being fueled by whale oil. In the early part of the 1800′s there were some configuration changes to the light houses, one was shortened then later restored to its previous height after some confusion with Boston light. In 1926 one of the lights was removed and by 1938 the sole remaining light was electrified.

Baker's Island Light c. 1929

In addition to the light house (set on 10 acres) the remainder of the island was privately owned. In 1888 a homeopathic doctor from Salem named Nathan Morse built a hotel/spa on Baker’s Island called the Winne-Egan. It had 50 guest rooms and catered to seekers of “health, pleasure and needed rest.” In addition to island activities such as sailing, fishing and swimming, guests could play tennis, or even shoot a short round of golf on the hotel’s six-hole course. Like many of Salem’s old buildings the hotel met its demise in 1906 when an accidental fire burned it to the ground.

Baker’s Island real estate; old money, private sales and coastal views.

There is not an abundance of information available about properties on Baker’s Island. No rentals what-so-ever and according to my real estate agent “There hasn’t been a public sale (in MLS) of anything on the island since 1999 – all private sales, and at that only a few”. I examined Salem’s GIS (Geographical Information System) viewer and found most parcels of land have been owned by family’s since before 1900.

Homes on Baker’s Island

Today access to the island is limited to residents and their guests. The islands one pier is where all visitors arrive and depart. Many residents have their own boats but a water shuttle the Double Eagle, is available from Salem harbor.

a view from the pier at sunset

Final thought

I am still looking for my summer retreat. Many Salem residents visit this site, so if you have a place out on Baker’s Island contact me, I would love to learn more about what is in our own back yard. And for all my out of town readers, if I get the opportunity to go over there, walk around and shoot some photos, you can be sure to find them right here at theSalemInsider.com.

I enjoy the bunghole for something fun and different once in a while. It’s also fun to share a friends first bunghole experience with them, I love to see the look on their face. The bunghole never fails to get a smile. I love Bunghole Liquors.

With the recent holidays, I hosted a few out of town guests who were excited to go to the bunghole of all places. This modest package store (packie and package store are Massachusetts slang for liquor store) probably sells more T-shirts than cases of beer. They have parlayed their unique name into an online brand and sell swag near and far.

Salem’s Bunghole has a storied past with the building being used as a funeral palour during the time of prohibition (19th century prohibition not Salem’s first prohibition in 1657). Downstairs in a room perhaps used for embalming, the funeral director and his cohorts would meet to put back a few cocktails (he put the “fun” back in funeral). For whatever reason, the group refered to this private drinking spot as “the bunghole.” A bunghole is actually a hole bored into liquor casks (think scotch, wine or rum) which is plugged by a large cork known as a bung. One of the owners drinking buddies suggested that if prohibition was ever lifted he should turn the place into a liquor store. On December 5th, 1933 when the Twenty First Amendment was ratified Bunghole Liquors applied for and was granted the second liquor license that Salem issued.

There are plenty of better package stores in town but the Bunghole is fine for a neighborhood packie. And if you are like many tourists you’ll want to swing by for a photo and perhaps a coosy, church key or t-shirt. Just don’t forget, they sell alcohol in there too.

Salem has a host of breakfast nooks today we revisited Fountain Place, diagonally across from the Samantha statue on the corner of Essex and Washington.

It had been over a year since we last reviewed Fountain Place and with that information long gone the time had come again to try it out. Nothing much had changed. They still have a stellar location on the corner of the block with big windows so patrons can look out on the morning hustle and bustle. The interior is bland and could use a makeover, its not bad just somewhat worn. The waitress was very friendly and had a surly diner waitress air about her.

We ordered the eggs Benedict (with home fries), eggs Florentine, and French toast. Coffee, OJ and chocolate milk rounded out our order. Service was quick with the food being served up nice and hot. Everything was good but none of it was inspired. The hollandaise was fine but unremarkable, Florentine also was satisfactory but nothing to write home about.

Unlike other breakfast joints in town there is nothing bad about this place, on the other hand nothing stands out either. Bland.

Atmosphere: C
Food: C
Service: B+
Price: B+
Overall: C

Prior to our New Years Eve bash, some of our contributors were making the rounds and met up with a couple from New York City who were looking for a taste of something different. What they found is sure to spice up your new year.

Rockafellas “helltini” will make fire shoot out your ears, it’s so spicy you have to sign a waiver before you will be served. I had only a few drops and while tasty my tongue and lips were dancing a Cajun two step for the next 10 minutes. Made with vodka, cinnamon, jagermeister and an evil looking spice concoction this martini doesn’t come cheap. But if you are man (or woman) enough to finish this $20 drink you are rewarded not only with a warm glow but you choice of souvenir t-shirt.

A warning from our new tourist friends – “do not take part in any sort of amorous activities directly following consuming this beverage or you run the risk of incinerating your partner’.

Gideon Tucker House
Once a single family home this was converted in the 1900′s to condos. I was pleased to see that much of the original feel of a McIntire home was still in this now modern condo. The beautiful fireplaces and great use of space made this an outstanding home. Turning what was probably an unused or underused area (walkway) into a dining nook added much charm to this elegant condo.

Gardner-Pingree House
Owned by the PEM, this house was a treat to tour because it has been restored to its original 1805 grandeur. With no lighting and no heat you were able to better understand how life may have been two hundred years ago. Too many hand carved items to list.

photographer and date unknown

The Emmerton House
Known as the Woman’s Friend Society, formed in 1876 to help girls and women in need, is a charitable organization still helping people (and still accepting donations and volunteers). When I walked in I instantly recognized the home, it is discussed at length in a few books I own. One of it’s most notable features are the two McIntire stair cases.

John Hodges House
There was just too much to take in at this home. One of the stand out features was the staircase with it’s hand carved spindles from the workshop of Mcintire. Three different spindles per step with the base being made of two spindles one set inside the center of the other each carved as opposing spirals.

White-Silsbee House
Once again I walked into a house I have never been in but knew like the back of my hand. Most of the photos I have seen of this home were taken in 1930 but all of the relevant features have been preserved. The parlor and sitting room oppose each other with fireplaces at either end, the rooms being sectioned by a three panel foldout door. Also of note the original stove. The dining room however was magnificent. With the original wood mantle being discarded in the Victorian era, a black marble mantle was put in it’s place. Vastly surpassing the fireplace was the original 18th century French wall paper depicting the four climate regions of the earth. Having been in many of the great homes in this country I can tell you this is a rare treasure, one which needs to be preserved. It simply is breathtaking.

Forrester-Peabody House/Bertram House
Known as the Home for Aged Men, this is another example of a historically relevant home being used for charitable purposes and keeping much of it’s architectural value. I was impressed with how warm and inviting the large rooms were. It gave you a sense of how the architect envisioned the usage of space. The most impressive feature of this home had to be the massive dining room. I wonder if it originally was used as a dining room or perhaps a ballroom. The dining room ceilings had to be at least 18 feet high (the guide did not know the height) with over 1 foot high crown moldings surrounding the room. Once again I was simply awestruck. It reminded me of the Red Room in the White House which has a ceiling height of 20 to 22 feet (depending on who you believe).

Pierce-Nichols House
McIntire’s first commission at the ripe old age of 24. There is a wealth of information about this home available. It is a must see for any student of the Federal period.

Benjamin Carpenter House
Unfortunately this is the only house on the tour where I felt someone dropped the ball. While the home was beautiful, the volunteers knew nothing about any of the rooms or the pieces in those rooms. Not to dwell on the negative, the library was both comfortable and livable while also being a fine showpiece.

Cottington-Smith Assembly House
Did I happen to mention it was bitterly cold this weekend? Thankfully this house which is used as a lecture hall and meeting place was set up to serve hot tea and coffee. George Washington once danced and dined here.

Cook-Oliver House
Some wonderful examples of McIntire’s woodcarvings, both on the exterior and interior of this home. The parlor features hand-cut chair rail and the quintessential McIntire wheat sheath mantle. The original crown molding was removed in 1902 (I believe) and sold to the Metropolitan Museum in New York. If you pay attention in this home you will notice quite a few examples of modern art, an interesting juxtaposition. This home was last opened 50 years ago for the 200th anniversary of McIntire.

Dodge-Shreve House
Again we find a strong oriental influence in this home. The dining room in addition to beautiful origami swans on the dinner settings was papered with Chinese tea paper, original to the home.

Johnathan Hodges House
The only house on Chestnut Street to be built by McIntire. The volunteers in this home did a great job of explaining many of the details of this home. I was amused by the story of Capt. Hodges near demise. The use of large antique mirrors made the already spacious rooms look even bigger.

sketch of floor plan by McIntire

Robinson-Little House
Standing out from other homes on the tour the first floor of this house was remodeled in the early 19oo’s. It features a rich mahogany interior, unique as it is not wood paneling but wood veneer laid out over stretched fabric with the cross molding pieces set atop the veneer. Also standing out from other homes on the tour, the McIntire fireplaces were not monochrome but had the relief painted “Wedgwood” blue on two of the fireplaces. A bonus feature for people on the tour, the owners had a few printed out sheets and old photos describing the history of the home and a few of the relevant pieces inside.

Hamilton Hall
This year the great space of Hamilton Hall was consumed by a Christmas fair. Luckily this building is open much of the year and available for private functions.

photo from this past summer’s walking tours

Loring-Emerton House
Another condo that just changes how you think about condos. The McIntire influence on this home is evident. Walking through the portico into the foyer you are greeted by a staircase featuring the same spindle work as the John Hodges house. Once in the home I was blown away by the domed bedroom ceiling, not to mention the seamless integration of a modern bathroom and kitchen into a classical interior. One of the best features had to be the one person seating/reading nook tucked in one of the rear rooms.

Final Thoughts

As is the case each year, I had a great time. I learned so much an was inspired by what I saw. A big thank you goes out to Historic Salem Inc., all the home owners who graciously opened their homes and all the volunteers that made the event a success.

I would love to know what you thought about this years house tour.

For the past 28 years, Historic Salem Inc. (the people responsible for those cool plaques on our homes) has been organizing a walking tour of historic homes to help raise money for their organization. Let me say right up front that I am a member, choosing to join after attending a series of walking tours this summer. I felt it was $40 ( for a household membership) well spent. They do a great job for the community so please don’t be put off by their website www.historicsalem.org.

Two years ago I went on the house tour and walked through 15 homes (only 14 were on the tour but someone left a door open and next thing you know 50 people walked through their house). Most were private residences but some were public and/or notable, like the House of Seven Gables and the Home for Aged Women (a McIntire home). It is a true pleasure to see how some of the historical homes you walk by every day look inside. I often get inspired by how some people have kept up or restored their homes. I also am bewildered by some of the other things that people do to their houses. Either way its a win win for me and Historic Salem.

This years tour keeps the summer walking lecture series alive by focusing on Samuel McIntire.

McIntire: Mansions and More will be the theme of the 28th annual Christmas in Salem house tour sponsored by Historic Salem Inc. This year’s event will showcase the work of Samuel McIntire, Salem’s renowned Federal period architect and carver, in the 250th anniversary year of his birth. Fifteen of Salem’s finest properties, designed or inspired by McIntire, will be featured on this tour, which will be located in the Washington Square/Salem Common area as well as in the Federal and Chestnut Street neighborhoods which make up the aptly named McIntire District.
- Historic Salem Inc.

I know that Salem is a walking city and this walking tour is a prime example of a great way to spend a weekend day here in town. The tour runs from 10 am to 4 pm on Saturday December 1, 2007 and 11:30 am to 4:30 pm on Sunday, advanced ticket holders get a Friday night bonus of five homes open just to them from 5 pm to 8 pm.

Advance tickets can be purchased at the following retailers before Thursday Nov. 29th at 5:00pm. Ticket prices are $20 in advance, $18 for HSI members and seniors.

• A Touch of the Past, 83 Washington Street, Salem
• Borders Books & Music, 151 Andover Street, Peabody
• Peter D. Barter Gift Shop, 201 Derby Street, Salem
• Waters & Brown, 281 Derby Street, Salem
• Waters & Brown, 14 Elliott Street, Beverly
• The Trolley Depot, 191 Essex Street, Salem

Tickets may be purchased the day of the tour (Saturday & Sunday) for $25 at:

• Hamilton Hall – 9 Chestnut St,
• Treasures Over Time – 131 Essex Street #4

Note:
Usually when I contribute to this site I stock the post with photos, unfortunately I am on the road now and don’t have access to last years images. I will do a follow up to this post with a selection of pictures from this years tour so stay tuned!

Salem Massachusetts was founded in 1626 and incorporated in 1629. You may recall from history class that there were no automobiles at this time. As such, most of the oldest neighborhoods including the down town area were in close proximity to each other and to the waterfront where Salem’s wealth came from. Luckily for us as Salem grew, it’s core foundation of neighborhoods stayed put and the same roads they walked hundreds of years ago we walk today.

Since many of our visitors stay in the down town or wharf neighborhoods when they come to Salem I ran those locations through the walk score algorithm and came out with a whopping 98 out of 100! So if you are a tourist or are looking for someplace to live where you don’t need a car, Salem is the place for you.

Find the walking score of where you live or where you are going.

With Salem being one of the top tourist destination cities in the US for a variety of reasons, there are plenty of places for the traveler to stay. We have two large hotels, inns, a motel and a plethora of Bed & Breakfasts. For you thrill seekers, some rooms and houses are even said to be haunted.

Where to stay in Salem

Full Service Hotels

• Hawthorne Hotel
  18 Washington Square
• Salem Waterfront Hotel & Suites
  225 Derby Street

Inns

• The Salem Inn
  7 Summer Street

Motel

• The Clipper Ship Inn*
  40 Bridge Street

Bed & Breakfasts

• Amela Payson House
  16 Winter Street
• Coach House Inn*
  284 Lafayette Street
• Henry Derby House
  47 Derby Street
• The Inn on Washington Square
  53 Washington Square North
• Morning Glory Bed & Breakfast
  22 Hardy Street
• Northey Street House
  30 Northey Street
• Stephen Daniels House
  1 Daniels Street
• Stepping Stone Inn
  19 Washington Square North

RV / Camping

• Winter Island Marine Park*
  50 Winter Island Road

* Not within 10 minute walking distance to down town

When to come to the Witch City

As with every other destination when you come determines what you pay. Since Halloween and all things spooky are why many people come to town, October is the most expensive month. What you might not know is Salem visitors start coming in April and don’t slow down until November. The hotels, inn and motel are open year round. If you are interested in a B&B check their sites because many close down November through January or November through April.

Room prices vary from an off season quaint B&B room for under $75 to a King Suite with a wet bar in October for over $300. Here is a simple chart to help figure things out.

January $
February $
March $
April $$
May $$
June $$
July $$
August $$
September $$$
October $$$$
November $
December $

Weekday rates are less expensive than weekends and reservations are recommended (required by most) in September and October.

Other things to consider

Salem is a walking city. With few exceptions ( see above) all of the accommodation’s are in walking distance to all of the attractions. There is no need to drive anywhere in town once you get to Salem. If you are planning to stay at one of the larger hotels parking is included. If you are thinking about a B&B you should call ahead and ask about parking availability. In the off season Salem has plenty of parking but starting in the summer parking gets tight. During October the city enacts a parking ban allowing only residents to park in many of the neighborhoods.

Food for thought

Regardless of where you decide to stay, seeing all that Salem has to offer requires you to keep your energy level up. If you want to stock some food in your room for when you get the late night munchies, keep in mind that Salem has one grocery store in the down town area (and one 24 hour quickie mart). We have many other markets in town but they are not within walking distance.

The hotels have restaurants serving round the clock and the Salem Inn has a dining room with limited service hours. Fear not because Salem is blessed with a variety of great restaurants, cafes and sandwich shops. If you don’t visit some of them you’re Salem trip will really be missing out.

Make sure to bring some good walking shoes and a hearty appetite. You’ll be sure to leave with a smile on your face and some great memories!