Tall Ship Peacemaker

Tall Ship, Peacemaker, is currently docked at Central Wharf in Salem, MA. The Peacemaker is open to the public for free from August 10 to 22, 10am to 7pm on weekdays, and 10am to 9pm on the weekends. It’s a great opportunity to go aboard a working barquentine vessel and get a feel for how life may have been.

Photo courtesy of HipSalem.com

About the Peacemaker

According to wikipedia

The Peacemaker, originally named Avany, was built on a riverbank in southern Brazil using traditional methods and tropical hardwoods, and was launched in 1989. The original owner and his family motored in the southern Atlantic Ocean before bringing the ship up through the Caribbean to Savannah, Georgia, where they intended to rig it as a three-masted staysail Marconi rigged motor sailer. The work was never done, however, and in the summer of 2000, it was purchased by the Twelve Tribes, a religious group with 50 or so communities in North and South America, Europe, and Australia. They spent the next seven years replacing all of the ship’s mechanical and electrical systems and rigging it as a barquentine. The refit vessel set sail for the first time in the spring of 2007, under the name Peacemaker.

About the Twelve Tribes

The owners of Peacemaker are almost as interesting as the ship. While the name “Twelve Tribes” may imply a Jewish connection but this religious group claims to be nondenominational. Created by Gene Spriggs, a hippie Jesus Freak in the early 1970′s when cult movements were as prevalent as Volkswagen micro buses, this church has endured for almost 40 years.

Spriggs and his hippie followers started recruiting in 1972, soon micro churches started popping up in the South. Each church complete with communal living for is members, was  funded by a restaurant chain called “The Yellow Deli” where it’s members worked. In 1976, a Yellow Deli sprung up in Island Pond VT, owned and operated by The Northeast Kingdom Community Church. During the 80′s the church experienced some legal issues, including a raid where the government seized 112 children from their compounds. The raid was later deemed unconstitutional and by the late 80′s their legal troubles had come to pass.

Through the 1990′s the church went global setting up shop in Canada, Australia, Brazil, Spain, Germany, Argentina, and the United Kingdom. Still clinging to the communal lifestyle, home schooling, cottage businesses (with a reach into organic farming) and secretive wedding rituals (not unlike what is portrayed in the HBO series Big Love) the church again found itself in various legal troubles involving child labor, kidnapping shenanigans and failure to follow government mandated home schooling requirements.

Currently the ship is used as a promotional tool, educational vessel and method to transport its founder to the various locations owned by the church.

Old Town Hall Salem MA

For a while now various groups have been holding events there and using the space for all sorts of fun stuff.  A little over one year ago we discussed a few plans that people had floated regarding the future usage of the Old Town Hall.  The outcome was that since Gordon College does a fine job with its Cry Innocense program that they would become stuarts of the stucture and use it to promote the Arts and Community.

Continuing with this spirit of arts, education, community and entertainment the good folks over at Gordon College  have opened their doors to you on their new website www.SalemOldTownHall.com.

Time Travel Days at the Old Town Hall

The Gordon College Institute for Public History announces a collaborative festival for residents and visitors providing opportunities to interact with Salem’s rich and diverse history.  Time Travel Days is looking for musicians, performers, venders, and presenters to provide programming for students, history buffs and the community at large. Programming may be from any time period, but must be related to Salem.

Potential programming participants are invited to submit a response  to the call for proposals.  Programmers whose proposals are selected may be required to submit an additional application.

To find out more about this program and to download a application head over to their website.

Then & Now: Salem
Author:  Jerome M. Curley, Nelson L. Dionne
Publisher:  Arcadia Publishing (February 16, 2009)
Amazon link: Then & Now: Salem

Then & Now: Salem

As you might expect Then & Now: Salem compares life in the Witch City through the photographers lens.  Luckily for us, Salem has been a wealthy city which lead to it being photographed extensively through out the years.   Then & Now: Salem focuses on  the structural, architectural and subsequently the environmental changes which have occurred mostly over the last century.

The photographer replicated images of Salem using the same vantage point as a previous photographer had and displays them side by side allowing the reader to delve into the changes, sometimes an improvement and other times to the detriment of our fair city.  As a photographer myself I would have preferred if the shots were reproduced using the same kind of cameras.  Many of the updated shots were taken with what appears to be a small or medium format camera not allowing the photographer to correct for perspective (which is why in some of the old photos the buildings look straight up and down where as the new shots appear to be leaning).   This discontinuity of perspective in no way effects the impact of how time has treated Salem, it is pure photographer snobbery.

As you know, we at TheSalemInsider.com occasionally do “then & now” posts, it’s a great way to track how our city changes its face from year to year.  Then & Now: Salem allows you to track those changes on a grand scale and gives you and insight to live in a bygone era.

If you are anything like me you will lament the loss of some of these buildings and regret that in the name of progress we demolished true craftsmanship in favor of  a bit more living or working space.  The flip side of that coin is an enlightenment to the downfalls of our forefathers and the ability and responsibility we now have with the current and future projects in town.

Then & Now: Salem is a must have for any true Salemite.  Wether you are a history buff or just want to see the Witch City in a new light as you walk about town, this book gives you a look at our past and a glimpse into our future.

McIntire Fireplace in the Pierce Nichols house

The first apartment I had in Salem was a little one bedroom on Essex overlooking Jerrys Army – Navy.  It had a fireplace and one fake log would warm up the place for hours. Last year I moved to a much bigger place and one of the requirements was that it had a fireplace.  Since most of the homes and apartments are rather old many of them come with working fireplaces.  I now have a large hearth type fireplace that takes quite a few logs to get it up and running.

You hear from various sources that using a fireplace in the winter is a waste as it creates an outlet for the warm air of your house to escape.  Yet when you head out on a cold crisp winter evening you can see and smell that plenty of people around town are enjoying the warmth of a fire.  I’d like to think that a few hundred years ago Salem may have smelled similar to those nights. I conveniently forget about the modern conveniences of indoor pluming, trash pickup and the conspicuous lack of farm animals roaming our streets.

With the recent ice storm hitting just to our north many people are relying on their fireplace as a necessity.  Luckily we in Salem are not forced to do that however, many of us do use it through the winter.  For those of you who strike up the fire I’d loke to know why you use your fireplace.  Is it only for ambiance during special occasions or do you use it to heat your home or reduce your heating bill?

In a future post we will be discussing the disparity of good web designers and developers here in Salem to pathetic websites but you’ll have to wait for that…

On to today’s post.

So, when I moved to Salem I wanted to join the Historical Society. In my previous town I was a member and they were quite active in town. I’m also involved with the Dedham Historical Society and figured Salem would be just as active. Well to my dismay there isn’t really a Salem Historical Society.  Bummer.  What I did find was the Salem History Society, (another stellar website from 1992 maybe).  If you can struggle through their site you would find that they host meetings at Cornerstone Books.  In fact tonight September 9th at 7:30 is there first meeting of fall.   Unfortunately we will be attending the Build Guild so we can’t make it there but if you go let us know how it was.

Getting back to my quest for history.  So the Salem History Society didn’t look to organized nor did they have any offerings at the time I was looking so I moved on.

In my searching I found that the old Historical Society was assimilated quite some time ago by the Borg collective that is the PEM.  My quest almost died there until I did some research on the house plaques you see here in town.  That’s when I discovered Historic Salem Inc. and quickly became a member.  They have done a bunch of tours and programs we’ve reported on in the past.  And they’re at it again.

Have you heard of the Great Salem Fire on June 25th 1914?  Well our friends at HSI are ready to tell you all about it.

Great Salem Fire

The Great Salem Fire started with a series of explosions, caused by a mixture of acetone, amalacitate, alcohol, and celluloid. At 1:37 PM, a fire alarm box was used to report a fire in the Korn leather factory, 57 Boston street.

The fire spread quickly down and across Boston Street. The police department sent out calls to 21 cities for assistance. One industrial department, the Fore River Shipyard, also assisted. Over 90 police men from out of town came to help. The Salem Evening News, (Friday, July 24, 1914, page 11), has a complete list of all responding departments and where and how they worked to fight the fire.

The fire burned 253 acres (1 km²) with 1,376 buildings. The entire loss was estimated at US$15 million; insurance policies paid US$11.744 million. Some 20,000 people lost their homes, 10,000 their jobs, and a few their lives.

Interesting – so what?

Remember last September when everyone was going bonkers over the Samuel McIntire anniversary?  HSI did a series of Fall walking tours and we all learned about McIntire archetechure.  This year their focus is on The Great Salem Fire.

The series will trace the path of the Salem Fire of June 25, 1914 focusing on three distinct neighborhoods.

• September 14, 2008 The General Alarm: The First Streets to go up in Flames
• September 21, 2008 The Conflagration Strikes South Salem
• September 28, 2008 The Fire Swallows Salem’s Jobs: The Point, the Mills, and the Waterfront

So put on your walking shoes – bust out $5 and fire up some of your brain cells, its going to be a fun fall.

Historic Salem Inc. Fall Walking Tour Schedule

Salem is home to a few great bookstores, bunches of library’s both public and private and a gem known as the Salem Athenaeum.  The Salem Athenaeum was formed in 1810 by the union of the Social and Philosophical libraries. By 1837, it boasted a collection of around 9,000 volumes.  It’s located in a beautiful brick Palladian and Federal building (modeled after Homewood) at 337 Essex Street just down the road a piece from the Salem Library.

Now with over 50,000 volumes the Salem Athenaeum has current and historical information, offers regular salons, readings and gatherings.

If you’re going to have books you need writers.

For all you aspiring writers out there a new group has formed, The Parlor is a new nonprofit creative writing center in Salem, Massachusetts.

Our mission is to foster the creative development of individual writers, to cultivate a local writing community, and to build an audience for literature on the North Shore of Massachusetts. We’ll do this by providing affordable creative writing workshops to writers of all experience levels, by hosting events of interest to the writing community, and by continuing to publish the
national literary journal Quick Fiction.

The Parlor Hosts Novelist Hannah Tinti at The Salem Athenaeum

Now that you know about the Anthenaeum and the Palor it’s time to meet Novelist Hannah Tinti. Hannah Tinti, a Salem native now living in New York will be coming home before embarking on a national book tour to promote her new novel The Good Theif. Her work has appeared in various magazines and anthologies, including Best American Mystery Stories 2003. Her short story collection, Animal Crackers, has been sold in sixteen countries and was recently a runner-up for the PEN/Hemingway award.

While in Salem you can meet Ms. Tinti on Saturday, July 19th at 2:30 pm, when The Parlor will host their first annual Creative Connection held at The Salem Athenaeum.

Much of the information regarding Salem shops here on TheSalemInsider.com has to do with new businesses in town or changes happening, today we’re jumping in the way back machine and telling you about a fantastic little gem that started 202 years ago and is still going strong today.

A long long time ago (1806) in a town much like this one (actually exactly like this one because, it was this one) a woman from England along with her son were found shipwrecked. With nothing but the generosity from her new neighbors and her candy making recipes this woman started a business. Mrs. Spencer went on to produce the “Salem Gibralter,” said to be the first candy made and sold commercially in America and carried around the world by sea captains and their crew. The company was sold to John William Pepper (for whom it is now named) in 1830 and eventually an employee of Pepper’s purchased the business in the late 1800′s and it has remained in his family ever since.

Today Ye Olde Pepper Companie located across from the House of Seven Gables, still sells some of the same candies it made hundreds of years ago. They even have a jar of candy that was made 175 years ago in their shop and no you can’t try any of it, I asked.

In addition to some olde favorites you can also get a great selection of jelly beans, fudge, chocolates and sugar-free candies for diabetics.

Like any good candy shop worth its weight in errr sugar… you can watch some candies being made right there on premises. Locals, if you’re looking for a great gift or just interested in feeding your sweet tooth head over during the week to avoid the crowds. Tourists, don’t miss this quaint shop when you come to Salem. It really is a sweet surprise.

Why is Salem a hot spot for nightlife?

Last year and beyond if you were looking for live music your choices were somewhat limited. Dodge Street offered up Rock music in a dive bar atmosphere, Rockafellas offered dance music in a bit more upscale atmosphere, Bangkok Paradise offered Jazz in a weird atmosphere (for jazz) and occasionally Edgewater, O’Neills and The Old Spot (formerly McSwiggins) would have live music. Sitting just outside the down town area, Bay Bridge was a staple of the Salem nightclub scene with local and national bands, karaoke and DJ’s playing almost every night. Let’s not forget the Lobster Shanty in the nice weather months.

© Danielle Blue

Competition raises the bar.

As a reader of TheSalemInsider.com you probably know that due to a combination of sprinkler system legislation and non-payment of taxes the Bay Bridge is closed. There has been no movement on this property so it looks like it’s gone for a long while. On the flip side, new establishments in Salem have made others stand up and take notice.

Gulu-Gulu Cafe brought with it a huge beer menu, interesting live music and a packed house of well-tattooed hipsters. A cascading effect of late night changes shortly ensued. Bangkok Paradise shifted their Friday and Saturday jazz to a 6-9 time slot allowing them to promote “rock” bands (rock, hip-hop, roots, metal and cover bands) in the 10-12 time slot. New comer Fresh Taste of Asia, saw an opening and decided to spin the wax with an ambient hip-hop groove catering to a young urban Asian set.

Established locales aren’t impervious to the phenomenon either. The Lyceum has started a live music series on weekend nights, their acts are targeted to their existing clientèle featuring more mellow music and the occasional 70′s rocker. The Old Spot stepped up their bookings also, with live music 3 to 5 nights a week (unfortunately they still are having a hard time getting the word out - get a website people). O’Neills does the DJ thing and packs in a good college-type crowd.

In the “everything thats old is new again” department, Spirits of 300 Derby (formerly Roosevelt’s of Salem) opened recently and has an entertainment license that allows for up to 5 musicians. We’ve seen some great guitar player/singers and Salem favorite, Preacher Jack. Look for changes to happen over at Spirits soon as they work out their menu and eventually open up the second floor. Dodge Street marches to their own drum beat and has been doing live music well before it got trendy.

It seems like musicians from all around are hip to the new explosion of Salem night life. Musicians contact us through our myspace page asking about gigs or adding us to their guest list just so we can have a listen. Killer Boston bands like The Indefinite Article, Ichabod and the Love Dogs play gigs in Salem all the time. Plenty of local musicians ply their craft here in town also. With all the great venues and opportunities out there I wouldn’t be surprised to see Salem songstress Mary Lou Lord playing out somewhere soon.

If you build it they will come.

Now that restaurants and bars are offering entertainment, where is everyone coming from? Many people are throwing around the phrase “Salem is the new Cambridge” and that just might be true. I personally know a bunch of people that used to live in Cambridge, Boston and Somerville that have recently moved to Salem. Salem offers a city feel, walkability, MBTA access, and rent at half the price of places in Boston and parking is slightly better.

While census stats for this exact information is unavailable it’s a safe bet to say that more young professionals, 20 and 30-somethings have been moving into Salem. You see them walking to the commuter rail in the morning or having a cup of coffee at any one of our coffee shops on the weekend.

An informal poll taken in January by TheSalemInsider.com showed many people are taking advantage of Salem’s night life live North of Boston (from Revere to Gloucester). When asked “why Salem” the answers were varied but revolved around bang for your buck, quality entertainment, safety and less hassle.

What’s next for Salem’s scene?

Any insider can tell you that there is a yearly cycle that Salem goes through. Like many of it’s North Shore neighbors Salem sees a direct influx of people based on the weather. Spring finds more locals that have been hibernating in doors all winter out walking about and making their way to many of our local hang outs. Once June hits and schools close, tourists arrive taking full advantage of our waterfront, the Willows and off shore locations like the Salem Harbor Islands (i.e. Baker’s Island). As the summer draws to a close and fall hits the second wave of tourists hits in full force for the Halloween season.

With spring right around the corner what will the face of Salem nightlife look like? If last year is any indication, outdoor seating will be all the rage. Like Newbury Street in Boston, anyone with a few feet of real estate in front of their place will plop down a table and start serving out side. Last year The Lobster Shanty, Salem Beerworks and Victoria Station had by far the largest patio seating with Rockafellas showing nicely for down town. This year the tide has changed, be on the lookout for Spirits to dominate summer outdoor space. If they book quality live music and are allowed to play outside, they could give the Shanty a run for their money.

Summer finds tourists and locals alike beating a path to Pickering Wharf. Finz and Victoria Station have nice on the water seating but Capt’s open air second floor offers perhaps the best view on the wharf. If you want a more nautical dinner experience than just eating by the water, you can dine on the water at Salem’s floating restaurant the Rockmore which is scheduled to open on May 23rd. The Rock is a perennial party pad pushing a plethora of pleasant pabulum and plenty of potable potions.

Is Salem’s art and music boom sustainable?

Twenty years ago when the Cambridge music and arts scene started to take off people said that venues like TT the Bear’s and the Middle East would never survive across the river from Boston landmarks like the Rathskeller, Narcissus, The Boston T Party and M-80. If you look at the Boston/Cambridge seen today you’ll find that two of the Boston clubs mentioned are now BU condos the other two are now Lyons Group clubs, changed names, had about 50 face lifts and just last month one (now Avalon) was sold to the House of Blues. In Cambridge, TT’s and the Middle East are still packing people in every night of the week.

I don’t think we will see the migration to Salem slow down for quite a while. New condo housing is being built and affordable rentals abound. More 20 and 30-somethings with disposable income, no kids or very young families are still flocking to Salem. With their arrival you find business that cater to them popping up. Prime examples are hip baby shops like Crunchy Granola Baby, hang outs like Front Street Coffee House and Gulu-Gulu Cafe and new businesses like the recently opened Hex and the soon to open Witch City Ink. When independent businesses open up focusing on a college/post college/young professional demographic it makes the city more appealing to that demographic.

With available retail space, new space coming shortly (Old Salem News building, and Courthouse area redevelopment) there is no question the night life scene in Salem can grow. One fear many people have is corporate establishments encroaching on down town. Salem’s unique charm is in part due to it’s independent businesses. When local pizza chain The Upper Crust moved into Salem last year there was plenty of talk regarding their “corporate” status. Will future restaurant/bar/nightclub owners in Salem keep an independent spirit alive? That remains to be seen.

What is missing from Salem’s scene?

One aspect lacking in Salem is a true “night club”, one with great sound and lights that focuses on entertainment every night. While this type of place can’t realistically exist in down town Salem, there are plenty of locations that would work.

Where is the Salem Art scene? In the summer, Klopp Alley is full of artists, sculptures, jewelry makers and musicians. Through out the year The Salem Art Association throws a few events promoting art and their artists in particular. The Art Corner, Front Street Coffeehouse and Gulu-Gulu Cafe always have something on exhibit but is this enough for our city? Often during Halloween season the old Newmark Gallery on Essex Street is taken over by locals and puts on quite a show. This year that wont happen as it will house the Lizzie Borden Museum (why? I didn’t know she was from Salem). There are plenty of local artists and the only galleries to be found in Salem are devoted to miniature ships and maritime paintings. With all the talent in our own backyard it’s too bad there is no daily way to showcase it.

Salem could also benefit from a “local only” night. In some smaller cities you will find venues that promote from within, by featuring only local musicians and artists on a particular night (every Thursday for instance). Given the number of bands and artists that call Salem home this could be a successful concept for a mid-week night.

Last Call

As more people come to Salem for their night out the venues need to keep up their great offerings while simultaneously ensuring client safety. By keeping patrons safe from harm (usually due to fisticuffs and/or over imbibing) the city licensing boards and police will allow a greater expansion of this city’s night life. When people come to Salem and have fun, everybody wins.

Right now is a great time to live in Salem, Massachusetts. Night time fun is in style and choices are abundant. If you want to have a quiet bottle of wine with friends, see live rock music, dance to a hip-hop DJ, or sit in on a jazz set – Salem has it all. And it’s only getting better. With the proliferation of patrons, establishments are seeing a bump in their bottom line which means they are more willing to offer you what you’re looking for, a good time on a night out.

The following paragraph stood out to me

The upstairs hall makes an impressive venue for public functions, and it’s been suggested in this space on several occasions that the City Council should consider it as a permanent location for major public hearings and inaugural observances. Local promoter David Pelletier has suggested that a retail tenant be found for the ground floor and the city seek to make the function hall home to one or more cultural institutions that would offer regular performances there.

As you know, we at TheSalemInsider.com don’t comment on the politics of Salem, there are other blogs that do a good job of that, however this is more of a cultural comment. I love the idea of having the city council hold hearings here, and I think it would be great to see inaugurations happen at this location. I can almost picture it now, the new mayor standing in front of this building and everyone in the court yard watching the ceremony. It sure beats people stuffed into some municipal building.

What I’m not fond of is Mr. Pelletier’s suggestion of a retail tenant taking up space on the ground floor. I have to admit I don’t know the specifications of his proposal but I do know that this is a large space that works well being open to the public for a variety of events. Recently I’ve been there for a blood drive, the Spring Fling event, art shows and live music. I am all in favor of the Old Town Hall being used more often but, it would be a shame for other Salem organizations to loose this historic space.

No this isn’t an article about the Purple Scorpion or the soon to open Witch City Ink, it’s about some beautiful photographs, the Peabody Essex Museum and moko.

(c) Hans Neleman

Body Politics — Visions in blood and ink: the return of Maori tattoo

Open now and running through February 2009, the PEM is showing a photographic exhibit by Hans Neleman which delves into the Maori recapturing and embracing their cultural identity which was stolen from them under British rule. Neleman gained the trust of the indigenous Maori people of New Zealand photographing the resurgence of moko and witnessing the revival of the Maori language.

What is moko?

Traditionally the Tā moko is the permanent body and face marking by Māori. It is distinct from what we think of as tattoo’s in that the skin was carved by uhi (chisels) rather than punctured with a needle. Using an uhi (which looks like a back scratcher made from albatross bone) leaves the skin with grooves, rather than the smooth surface people with modern tattoos have.

Moko is a rite of passage, a road map to the wearers life. Each part of the moko is distinct and tells of the persons tribe, family and status in society. As such, each is unique and can be read by others, it is an outward profile of who you are. Moko can be worn by both men and women however, women tend to have only their lips and chin done while men do the entire face.

About the photographs.

As a photographer and having read Neleman’s book Moko–Maori Tattoo I can tell you that his use of large format photography to capture minute detail works wonderfully with his natural ability to connect with a subject. Many of his images are captured in a studio, not the natural environment for the average person. Yet he is able to put them at ease and allows their personality to show through. It is as though you can see through time and look beyond preconceived anachronistic notions.

With this being the 250th anniversary of the birth of Salem’s renowned architect and woodcutter, Samuel McIntire, a multitude of events (including the summer walking tours and Christmas house tour) have been offered in celebration with Carving an American Style at the Peabody Essex Museum being the focal point. This exhibit ends next Sunday February 24th. If you are a student of Salem history, fine wood artistry or architecture you owe it to yourself to get over to the PEM and see this collection now in its final week. The entire third floor is devoted to the genius of McIntire’s work.

From fine furniture details; carved desks, game tables, bedposts, mirrors and chairs to mammoth structures like the Old North Church, the Washington Arch (formerly at the West gate of the Salem Common) and a plethora of buildings, a great number of original McIntire pieces are on display. Not only are these pieces beautiful, but a portion of the exhibit is devoted to showing you how McIntire build them using traditional tools and methods. Seeing a master woodcarver ply his trade and viewing the example pieces on hand gives you a unique insight and appreciation on how this master must have worked.

An integral feature of the exhibit is exploring the relationship that McIntire had with the Henry Derby family. Derby was this nation’s first millionaire, making his money through trade with the Far East. Derby commissioned a variety of works, and was the first to commission a home designed by McIntire, who had it furnished with pieces he hand-picked, adorned with carvings.

If you are lucky enough to have some time off this week (it is school vacation week after all), spend some time enjoying this exhibit so you can spend more time enjoying Salem and what she has to offer.

Final lecture of the McIntire Lecture Series

In addition to seeing the exhibit, this Wednesday night is your last chance to attend one of the lectures which have been so informative. According to the PEM:

Elisabeth Garrett Widmer presents a talk on life at home in Federal America, which was demonstrably altered by a wide range of new aesthetic, economic and social forces and will examine these influences and their multifaceted manifestations in the architecture, décor and lifestyles of fashionable citizens of the federal period in America. She will open doors and peer through windows and invite the audience to join her on a tour through the drawing room and parlor, dining room and bedchamber, closet and bath. Along the way she will make observations on decoration and décor, comfort and convenience, furniture forms and feminine persuasion, consumerism and purchasing power, family life and room usage, entertainment and politeness and all the telling minutiae of domestic details.

Elisabeth Garrett Widmer is an independent author and educator. She has previously held leadership positions at Sotheby’s, Strawbery Banke Museum, Christie’s and Antiques America. She is the author of several books including At Home; the American Family, 1750-1870, which received the Charles F. Montgomery Prize of the Decorative Arts Society for the most distinguished contribution to the study of American decorative arts published in the English language by a North American scholar. She is currently working on a book on childhood in America.

The lecture is free but tickets are limited it’s suggested you swing by the museum and pick yours up early.

What the heck is Baker’s Island?

Most people are familiar with Salem’s 8.1 square miles of land but know nothing about our 10 miles of water or what exists out there. Salem maritime properties include Children’s Island, Ram Island, Cunney Island, Tinkers Island, Great Misery Island, Little Misery Island and Baker’s Island. While some of them have summer homes none are inhabited year round.

The 60 acre Baker’s Island lies 3.5 miles off shore. In addition to its one light house (visible from the Salem Willows) the island is home to 55 cottages most built in the late 1800′s to early 1900′s. The island also has a store, fire house, meeting hall (Sherman C. Burnham Hall), and gift shop known as Driftwood. Baker’s Island it’s Massachusetts’ largest residential island north of Boston.

History of Baker’s Island

During the golden age of sail, Salem was the wealthiest city in the States all because of her port but there were no major aids to navigation to help mariners past the islands and rocks outside her harbor. A conical day beacon erected in 1791 was 57 feet tall, painted red, and topped by a two-foot diameter black ball. Unfortunately this beacon was not much help at night or in the fog and after three wrecks in 1796 killing 16 men the Salem Marine Society sent a message to Congress stating they needed to replace the beacon with a lighthouse.

That much of the property and many of the lives of their fellow citizens are almost every year lost in coming into the harbour of Salem for want of proper lights to direct their course… This calamity can, in the opinion of this society be prevented only by erecting a lighthouse on the northern end of Bakers Island . . .

Congress authorized $6,000 for the establishment of twin lights on Baker’s Island which first lit up on January 3, 1798. The two towers were located on top of a two-story keeper’s house, about 40 feet apart at either end of the building with four lamps being fueled by whale oil. In the early part of the 1800′s there were some configuration changes to the light houses, one was shortened then later restored to its previous height after some confusion with Boston light. In 1926 one of the lights was removed and by 1938 the sole remaining light was electrified.

Baker's Island Light c. 1929

In addition to the light house (set on 10 acres) the remainder of the island was privately owned. In 1888 a homeopathic doctor from Salem named Nathan Morse built a hotel/spa on Baker’s Island called the Winne-Egan. It had 50 guest rooms and catered to seekers of “health, pleasure and needed rest.” In addition to island activities such as sailing, fishing and swimming, guests could play tennis, or even shoot a short round of golf on the hotel’s six-hole course. Like many of Salem’s old buildings the hotel met its demise in 1906 when an accidental fire burned it to the ground.

Baker’s Island real estate; old money, private sales and coastal views.

There is not an abundance of information available about properties on Baker’s Island. No rentals what-so-ever and according to my real estate agent “There hasn’t been a public sale (in MLS) of anything on the island since 1999 – all private sales, and at that only a few”. I examined Salem’s GIS (Geographical Information System) viewer and found most parcels of land have been owned by family’s since before 1900.

Homes on Baker’s Island

Today access to the island is limited to residents and their guests. The islands one pier is where all visitors arrive and depart. Many residents have their own boats but a water shuttle the Double Eagle, is available from Salem harbor.

a view from the pier at sunset

Final thought

I am still looking for my summer retreat. Many Salem residents visit this site, so if you have a place out on Baker’s Island contact me, I would love to learn more about what is in our own back yard. And for all my out of town readers, if I get the opportunity to go over there, walk around and shoot some photos, you can be sure to find them right here at theSalemInsider.com.

I enjoy the bunghole for something fun and different once in a while. It’s also fun to share a friends first bunghole experience with them, I love to see the look on their face. The bunghole never fails to get a smile. I love Bunghole Liquors.

With the recent holidays, I hosted a few out of town guests who were excited to go to the bunghole of all places. This modest package store (packie and package store are Massachusetts slang for liquor store) probably sells more T-shirts than cases of beer. They have parlayed their unique name into an online brand and sell swag near and far.

Salem’s Bunghole has a storied past with the building being used as a funeral palour during the time of prohibition (19th century prohibition not Salem’s first prohibition in 1657). Downstairs in a room perhaps used for embalming, the funeral director and his cohorts would meet to put back a few cocktails (he put the “fun” back in funeral). For whatever reason, the group refered to this private drinking spot as “the bunghole.” A bunghole is actually a hole bored into liquor casks (think scotch, wine or rum) which is plugged by a large cork known as a bung. One of the owners drinking buddies suggested that if prohibition was ever lifted he should turn the place into a liquor store. On December 5th, 1933 when the Twenty First Amendment was ratified Bunghole Liquors applied for and was granted the second liquor license that Salem issued.

There are plenty of better package stores in town but the Bunghole is fine for a neighborhood packie. And if you are like many tourists you’ll want to swing by for a photo and perhaps a coosy, church key or t-shirt. Just don’t forget, they sell alcohol in there too.

Gideon Tucker House
Once a single family home this was converted in the 1900′s to condos. I was pleased to see that much of the original feel of a McIntire home was still in this now modern condo. The beautiful fireplaces and great use of space made this an outstanding home. Turning what was probably an unused or underused area (walkway) into a dining nook added much charm to this elegant condo.

Gardner-Pingree House
Owned by the PEM, this house was a treat to tour because it has been restored to its original 1805 grandeur. With no lighting and no heat you were able to better understand how life may have been two hundred years ago. Too many hand carved items to list.

photographer and date unknown

The Emmerton House
Known as the Woman’s Friend Society, formed in 1876 to help girls and women in need, is a charitable organization still helping people (and still accepting donations and volunteers). When I walked in I instantly recognized the home, it is discussed at length in a few books I own. One of it’s most notable features are the two McIntire stair cases.

John Hodges House
There was just too much to take in at this home. One of the stand out features was the staircase with it’s hand carved spindles from the workshop of Mcintire. Three different spindles per step with the base being made of two spindles one set inside the center of the other each carved as opposing spirals.

White-Silsbee House
Once again I walked into a house I have never been in but knew like the back of my hand. Most of the photos I have seen of this home were taken in 1930 but all of the relevant features have been preserved. The parlor and sitting room oppose each other with fireplaces at either end, the rooms being sectioned by a three panel foldout door. Also of note the original stove. The dining room however was magnificent. With the original wood mantle being discarded in the Victorian era, a black marble mantle was put in it’s place. Vastly surpassing the fireplace was the original 18th century French wall paper depicting the four climate regions of the earth. Having been in many of the great homes in this country I can tell you this is a rare treasure, one which needs to be preserved. It simply is breathtaking.

Forrester-Peabody House/Bertram House
Known as the Home for Aged Men, this is another example of a historically relevant home being used for charitable purposes and keeping much of it’s architectural value. I was impressed with how warm and inviting the large rooms were. It gave you a sense of how the architect envisioned the usage of space. The most impressive feature of this home had to be the massive dining room. I wonder if it originally was used as a dining room or perhaps a ballroom. The dining room ceilings had to be at least 18 feet high (the guide did not know the height) with over 1 foot high crown moldings surrounding the room. Once again I was simply awestruck. It reminded me of the Red Room in the White House which has a ceiling height of 20 to 22 feet (depending on who you believe).

Pierce-Nichols House
McIntire’s first commission at the ripe old age of 24. There is a wealth of information about this home available. It is a must see for any student of the Federal period.

Benjamin Carpenter House
Unfortunately this is the only house on the tour where I felt someone dropped the ball. While the home was beautiful, the volunteers knew nothing about any of the rooms or the pieces in those rooms. Not to dwell on the negative, the library was both comfortable and livable while also being a fine showpiece.

Cottington-Smith Assembly House
Did I happen to mention it was bitterly cold this weekend? Thankfully this house which is used as a lecture hall and meeting place was set up to serve hot tea and coffee. George Washington once danced and dined here.

Cook-Oliver House
Some wonderful examples of McIntire’s woodcarvings, both on the exterior and interior of this home. The parlor features hand-cut chair rail and the quintessential McIntire wheat sheath mantle. The original crown molding was removed in 1902 (I believe) and sold to the Metropolitan Museum in New York. If you pay attention in this home you will notice quite a few examples of modern art, an interesting juxtaposition. This home was last opened 50 years ago for the 200th anniversary of McIntire.

Dodge-Shreve House
Again we find a strong oriental influence in this home. The dining room in addition to beautiful origami swans on the dinner settings was papered with Chinese tea paper, original to the home.

Johnathan Hodges House
The only house on Chestnut Street to be built by McIntire. The volunteers in this home did a great job of explaining many of the details of this home. I was amused by the story of Capt. Hodges near demise. The use of large antique mirrors made the already spacious rooms look even bigger.

sketch of floor plan by McIntire

Robinson-Little House
Standing out from other homes on the tour the first floor of this house was remodeled in the early 19oo’s. It features a rich mahogany interior, unique as it is not wood paneling but wood veneer laid out over stretched fabric with the cross molding pieces set atop the veneer. Also standing out from other homes on the tour, the McIntire fireplaces were not monochrome but had the relief painted “Wedgwood” blue on two of the fireplaces. A bonus feature for people on the tour, the owners had a few printed out sheets and old photos describing the history of the home and a few of the relevant pieces inside.

Hamilton Hall
This year the great space of Hamilton Hall was consumed by a Christmas fair. Luckily this building is open much of the year and available for private functions.

photo from this past summer’s walking tours

Loring-Emerton House
Another condo that just changes how you think about condos. The McIntire influence on this home is evident. Walking through the portico into the foyer you are greeted by a staircase featuring the same spindle work as the John Hodges house. Once in the home I was blown away by the domed bedroom ceiling, not to mention the seamless integration of a modern bathroom and kitchen into a classical interior. One of the best features had to be the one person seating/reading nook tucked in one of the rear rooms.

Final Thoughts

As is the case each year, I had a great time. I learned so much an was inspired by what I saw. A big thank you goes out to Historic Salem Inc., all the home owners who graciously opened their homes and all the volunteers that made the event a success.

I would love to know what you thought about this years house tour.

For the past 28 years, Historic Salem Inc. (the people responsible for those cool plaques on our homes) has been organizing a walking tour of historic homes to help raise money for their organization. Let me say right up front that I am a member, choosing to join after attending a series of walking tours this summer. I felt it was $40 ( for a household membership) well spent. They do a great job for the community so please don’t be put off by their website www.historicsalem.org.

Two years ago I went on the house tour and walked through 15 homes (only 14 were on the tour but someone left a door open and next thing you know 50 people walked through their house). Most were private residences but some were public and/or notable, like the House of Seven Gables and the Home for Aged Women (a McIntire home). It is a true pleasure to see how some of the historical homes you walk by every day look inside. I often get inspired by how some people have kept up or restored their homes. I also am bewildered by some of the other things that people do to their houses. Either way its a win win for me and Historic Salem.

This years tour keeps the summer walking lecture series alive by focusing on Samuel McIntire.

McIntire: Mansions and More will be the theme of the 28th annual Christmas in Salem house tour sponsored by Historic Salem Inc. This year’s event will showcase the work of Samuel McIntire, Salem’s renowned Federal period architect and carver, in the 250th anniversary year of his birth. Fifteen of Salem’s finest properties, designed or inspired by McIntire, will be featured on this tour, which will be located in the Washington Square/Salem Common area as well as in the Federal and Chestnut Street neighborhoods which make up the aptly named McIntire District.
- Historic Salem Inc.

I know that Salem is a walking city and this walking tour is a prime example of a great way to spend a weekend day here in town. The tour runs from 10 am to 4 pm on Saturday December 1, 2007 and 11:30 am to 4:30 pm on Sunday, advanced ticket holders get a Friday night bonus of five homes open just to them from 5 pm to 8 pm.

Advance tickets can be purchased at the following retailers before Thursday Nov. 29th at 5:00pm. Ticket prices are $20 in advance, $18 for HSI members and seniors.

• A Touch of the Past, 83 Washington Street, Salem
• Borders Books & Music, 151 Andover Street, Peabody
• Peter D. Barter Gift Shop, 201 Derby Street, Salem
• Waters & Brown, 281 Derby Street, Salem
• Waters & Brown, 14 Elliott Street, Beverly
• The Trolley Depot, 191 Essex Street, Salem

Tickets may be purchased the day of the tour (Saturday & Sunday) for $25 at:

• Hamilton Hall – 9 Chestnut St,
• Treasures Over Time – 131 Essex Street #4

Note:
Usually when I contribute to this site I stock the post with photos, unfortunately I am on the road now and don’t have access to last years images. I will do a follow up to this post with a selection of pictures from this years tour so stay tuned!

Salem Massachusetts was founded in 1626 and incorporated in 1629. You may recall from history class that there were no automobiles at this time. As such, most of the oldest neighborhoods including the down town area were in close proximity to each other and to the waterfront where Salem’s wealth came from. Luckily for us as Salem grew, it’s core foundation of neighborhoods stayed put and the same roads they walked hundreds of years ago we walk today.

Since many of our visitors stay in the down town or wharf neighborhoods when they come to Salem I ran those locations through the walk score algorithm and came out with a whopping 98 out of 100! So if you are a tourist or are looking for someplace to live where you don’t need a car, Salem is the place for you.

Find the walking score of where you live or where you are going.

There is a delicate balance between knowing what to save and what to let go. I used to horde magazines, photography magazines, work-out magazines, home improvement it didn’t matter. As long as there was some information in there that I though was relevant I would keep it so I could use it some day. When it came time for me to move out of an apartment I lived in for 10 years I went through all those magazines and asked if what they had to offer me was worth me keeping them. Most of them went unceremoniously into the dumpster. When I walk about town and look at some of the older buildings I must come to the same conclusion I did with my magazines. Some of these buildings no longer have anything offer the city and must go.

So it is with the old Salem News building. At one point this building was a beautiful structure with people coming and going all day and night. It took up an entire block and was home to thriving businesses. Over the years bootblacks, pawn- brokers, tobacconists, tailors, photo studios and even an olde tyme Chinese laundry called this building home.
Old Salem News Building – date and photographer unknown

In 2001 the Salem News moved out of the old building above on the corner of Front and Washington and the Edgewater Cafe moved in. Further down Washington (on the right side of the phot0) the news building continues as a wooden structure (previously known as the Arrington Block) erected in 1874. From what I can tell, the wooden part of the News Building has been vacant since 2001. With nobody up keeping the building it has been left to rot and fall apart, becoming an eyesore in the down town area.

Salem News building today

I hate to see old buildings die but just looking at this structure you can tell it really is beyond repair. Thankfully it is not some architectural marvel, nor does it hold immense historical significance. It played a part in our down town for quite some time but its time has passed. It must go in order for the area to thrive again.

The demo crews have sectioned the area off and hopefully anything of value can be salvaged (maybe I’ll sneak in there and take a peek). The structure should be razed by the end of the year and according to the Salem News:

RCG has already started the permitting process for its new building and hopes to gets all its approvals by the spring and complete construction in 2009. Under the current plan, there will be 31 residences – condominiums or apartments – and a minimum of 36 parking spaces.

For a city to thrive, new life must be interjected to its current existence. I also feel that preserving history and remembering the past allows us to have a unique perspective on the future. So while we can mourn the passing of a piece of Salem’s history we should look forward to what will come.

Salem is attracting more young professionals and desperately needs this area of downtown to be fresh and inviting. Removing this building, acknowledging what it has given us and moving our community into a new phase of evolution is why Salem has endured for 400 years. With the right vision and sense of community perhaps it can make it a few hundred more.